A  CONCISE  AND  PRACTICAL  TREATISE  ON 
THE  HORSE 

BY  JACOB  BIGGLE 

ADAPTED  TO  THE  NEEDS  OF  FARMERS  AND  OTHERS 

WHO  HAVE  A  KINDLY  REGARD  FOR  THIS 

NOBLE  SERVITOR  OF  MAN 


ILLUSTRATED 


'Always  speak  to  a  horse  as  you  would  to  a  gentleman.' 


PHILADELPHIA 

WILMER  ATKINSON  Co. 

IQOI 


Copyright,  1894, 
By  Wilmer  Atkinson  Company. 


I 

FOURTH    EDITION,    IQOI. 


PREFACE. 


The  Author  has  not  much  to  say  by  way  of  Preface.  A. 
portion  of  the  material  contained  herein  has  been  contributed 
by  practical  Horsemen  and  Veterinarians  of  the  highest 
standing  in  the  United  States.  It  contains  much  of  the 
kindly  wisdom  of  John  Tucker  and  the  gentle  thought  of 
Harriet  Biggie  as  they  have  been  displayed  in  the  pages  of 
the  Farm  Journal.  Much  space  has  been  given  to  the 
humane  Training  of  the  Horse,  to  his  proper  Housing  and 
Feeding,  to  the  Care  of  his  Feet,  and  to  the  Education  of  the 
Colt.  The  Author  is  fully  conscious  of  the  incompleteness 
of  the  work,  of  its  imperfections  and  omissions  ;  but  he  has 
done  the  best  he  could  in  the  space  allotted,  and  hopes  his 
book  will  be  of  permanent  value  to  all  into  whose  possession 
it  may  come. 

JACOB  BIGGLE. 

ELM  WOOD  FARM. 


INVOCATION. 

When  cold  and  wet,  please  rub  me  dry, 
And  do  not  beat  me  when  I  shy ; 
Give  twice  a  week  a  hot  bran  mash, 
With  corn  and  oats  and  salt  a  dash ; 
Ten  pounds  each  day  of  hay  that's  free 
From  dust — all  you  should  give  to  me ; 


Feed  twice  a  week,  instead  of  oats, 
A  pair  of  carrots — 'twill  shine  my  coat ; 
When  hot,  don't  give  me  drink  or  grain  ; 
When  cold,  don't  stand  me  in  the  rain  ; 
Batten  my  stable  warm  and  tight, 
And  see  that  it's  kept  clean  and  light; 
In  winter,  blanket  close  and  bed  me  deep ; 
And  you'll  find  I'll  pay  you  for  my  keep. 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

PREFACE 5 

INVOCATION 6 

HISTORY 9 

HORSE  MAXIMS n 

CHAPTER  I. — THE  DIFFERENT  BREEDS 13 

CHAPTER  II. — FEEDING  AND  WATERING 31 

CHAPTER  III. — IN  THE  STABLE  AND  AT  WORK     ...  40 

HORSE  MAXIMS     49 

CHAPTER  IV. — WHIMS  AND  VICES 50 

CHAPTER  V. — HARNESS  HINTS 53 

CHAPTER  VI. — AILMENTS  AND  REMEDIES 58 

CHAPTER  VII. — AILMENTS  AND  REMEDIES 63 

CHAPTER  VIII. — DOCTORING 70 

MARE  MAXIMS 74 

CHAPTER  IX. — MARE  AND  COLT 75 

CHAPTER  X. — THE  COLT'S  EDUCATION 83 

COLT  MAXIMS 89 

CHAPTER  XI. — THE  FOOT   .    .    .    .    1 90 

HORSE  MAXIMS 96 

CHAPTER  XII. — SHOEING 97 

MAXIMS : 103 

CHAPTER  XIII. — A  WORD  FROM  HARRIET 105 

COLT  PHILOSOPHY no 

CHAPTER  XIV. — AGE  OF  A  HORSE in 

CHAPTER  XV. — ABOUT  STABLES 115 


HISTORY. 


In  all  authentic  history  of  the  human  race,  we  find  the 
horse  mentioned  as  the  servant  and  companion  of  man. 

When  the  horse  was  first  domesticated  is  not  known,  nor 
do  we  know  of  what  country  he  is  a  native.  Central  Asia, 
Arabia  and  Central  Africa  each  claims  this  honor,  and  we 
will  not  dispute  the  claims  of  either. 

In  the  time  of  Moses,  horses  were  used  in  Egypt ;  and 
later  on,  Solomon  kept  and  used  large  numbers  of  them. 
From  Job's  vivid  description  it  is  evident  that  they  were 
used  and  well  bred  in  the  countries  farther  east.  Horses  are 
represented  in  the  carvings  on  the  ruins  of  ancient  Ninevah 
and  in  the  marble  friezes  of  the  Greek  Parthenon.  When 
the  Romans  invaded  Britain,  they  found  the  natives  using 
horses  of  superior  quality,  and  took  some  of  them  back  to> 
Rome. 

It  is  supposed  that  the  Spaniards  brought  horses  to  South 
America  as  early  as  1535,  and  that  soon  afterwards  others 
were  shipped  to  Paraguay.  From  these  importations,  it  is 
thought  there  resulted  the  countless  herds  that  have  since 
spread  over  South  America,  and,  passing  the  Isthmus  of 
Panama,  wandered  into  Mexico  and  California.  In  like 
manner,  European  settlers  carried  this  noble  animal  to- 
Australia,  where,  as  in  America,  he  has  multiplied  to  a. 
prodigious  extent.  He  has,  indeed,  been  diffused  by  the 
agency  of  man  throughout  the  whole  inhabited  globe. 


REFERENCE   CHART. 


0.  Poll  or  nape  of  the  neck. 

1.  Neck. 

I x.  Jugular  gutter. 

2.  Withers. 

3.  Back. 

4.  Loins. 

5.  Croup. 

6.  Tail. 

7.  Parotid  region. 
S.  Throat. 

9.  Shoulder. 

10.  Point  of  the  shoulder. 

11.  Arm. 

12.  Elbow. 

13.  Forearm. 

14.  Chestnut. 

15.  Knee. 

1 6.  Canon. 

17.  Fetlock. 

18.  Pastern. 

19.  Coronet. 


20.  Foot. 

21.  Xiphoid  region. 

22.  Ribs. 

23.  Abdomen. 

24.  Plank. 

25.  Sheath. 

26.  Testicles. 

27.  Buttock. 

27  Ins.  Angle  of  buttock, 

28.  Thigh. 

28  bis.  Haunch. 

29.  Stifle. 

30.  Leg. 

31.  Hock. 

32.  Chestnut. 

33.  Canon. 

34.  Fetlock. 

35.  Pastern. 

36.  Coronet. 

37.  Foot, 


HORSE  MAXIMS. 


JOHN  TUCKER  says : 

Proper  food  and  lots  of  sentiment  will  make  with  good 
blood  a  good  horse. 

77te  brush  will  save  oats. 

There  is  a  great  deal  of  saving  in  a  walk. 

It  is  all  right  to  feed  the  horse  hay  only  twice  a  day 
and  the  most  at  night. 

Find  some  way  of  keeping  tJie  horses  busy  all  %vinter. 
Thus  only  will  they  keep  sound  and  be  ready  for  hard 
spring  work  when  it  comes. 

It  is  txpensive  to  warm  ice-water  inside  the  stock. 

Horses  eat  dirt  and  gnaw  their  mangers  from  habit  and 
because  they  want  to. 

Ask  the  horses  if  they  can't  help  out  the  hay  mow  by 
eating  the  straw  sprinkled  with  bran. 

If  yon  must  put  frosty  bits  in  some  months,  let  it  be 
your  own.  Suffering  begets  sympathy. 


12  HORSE  MAXIMS. 

HARRIET  BIGGLE  says : 

There  are  oats  in  the  currycomb. 

There  is  more  profit  in  coaxing  than  in  kicks. 

Do  not  push  the  plow  team  the  first  week  or  you  may 
get  behind. 

If  they  throw  up  their  heads  and  act  timidly  look  after 
your  stableman.  Such  acts  speak  louder  than  words. 

Carry  the  bridles  with  you  to  the  house  when  you  go  to 
breakfast  and  pttt  the  bits  near  the  stove  while  you  eat. 

Be  gentle,  be  kind,  be  patient. 

Always  speak  to  a  horse  as  you  would  to  a  gentleman. 

A  horse  can  travel  safer  and  better  with  his  head  hang- 
ing down  or  free  than  it  can  when  it  is  checked  up.  By 
all  means,  let  your  horse  have  its  head. 

The  three  greatest  enemies  of  the  horse  are  idleness,  fat 
and  a  dumb  blacksmith. 

Did  you  ever  think  uf  it?  The  whip  is  the  parent  of 
stubbornness.  It  is  sure  to  be  found  somewhere  in  the  pedi- 
gree of  every  balky  horse.  In  training  a  young  horse, 
use  as  intelligent  brain  instead  of  a  cruel  whip. 

Many  a  horse  stands  up  all  night  because  its  stall  is  not 
made  comfortable  to  lie  down  in. 

You  cannot  whip  terror  out  of  a  Horse  or  pound  courage 
into  one.  Kindness  and  reasonable  persuasion  are  the  best 
weapons  to  use  in  training  and  educating  a  horse.  If  he 
shies  or  frightens,  soothe  and  encourage  him,  rather  than 
beat  and  abuse  him. 

Give  to  me  nutritious  food  ; 
Give  me  water  pure  and  good ; 
When  the  chilling  winds  do  blow, 
Over  me  a  blanket  throw  ; 
Shield  me  from  all  cruelty ; 
When  I'm  old  be  kind  to  me. 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE   DIFFERENT   BREEDS. 

Realizing  that  lack  of  space  forbids  a  description  of  every 
breed  and  type  of  horse,  it  is  our  aim  to  describe  only  a  few 
breeds  that  fad  and  fancy,  which  often  mean  practical  utility, 
have  brought  to  the  front  of  modern  popularity. 

Although  the  effort  to  improve  the  breeds  of  horses  must 
have  existed  at  all  times,  it  has  only  been  within  the  last  few 
centuries  that  records  have  been  preserved  to  us  as  to  how 
this  end  has  been  sought  and  accomplished. 

The  horse  whose  record  has  been  most  carefully  preserved, 
and  who  no  doubt  has  left  a  deeper  imprint  on  most  of  the 
modern  breeds  of  horses,  is  the  English  Thoroughbred.  Al- 
though ' '  Thoroughbred"  is  apt  to  bring  to  the  mind  the 
breeding  of  horses  for  racing  purposes  alone,  we  must  not 
forget  that  the  qualities  of  courage,  endurance  and  intelli- 
gence have  largely  been  derived  through  the  Thoroughbred 
strain,  and  that  good  blood  of  any  kind  is  apt  to  give 
stronger  muscles,  finer  bones,  better  joints,  and  superior  wind 
and  lung  power. 

It  was  during  the  reign  of  Queen  Anne,  in  1702-1704, 
that  there  was  imported  by  a  Mr.  Barley  an  Arabian  horse, 
which  was  called  Barley's  Arabian,  and  from  him  almost  all 
of  the  famous  horses  of  later  day  were  descended.  But 
whatever  we  owe  to  the  great  number  of  horses  which  were 
imported  into  England,  both  before  and  after  this  time,  much 
credit  is  unquestionably  due  to  the  native  mares,  which  some 
authorities  say  were  mostly  Cleveland  Bays,  upon  which  the 
Arabian,  Barb  or  Turk  was  grafted,  and  which  laid  the 


14  THE   DIFFERENT   BREEDS. 

foundation  for  the  modern  Thoroughbred.  By  "  thorough- 
bred" is  meant  a  horse  or  mare  that  can  trace  for  generations 
from  sires  and  dams  of  pure  blood,  or  from  Arabs,  Barbs  or 
Persians,  recorded  in  the  stud-book  kept  for  that  purpose. 

Our  illustration,  made  from  a  photograph  from  life,  shows 
an  Arabian  horse,  "  Missirli,"  one  of  two  presented  to  Gen- 


GEN.  GRANTS   ARABIAN. 

eral  Grant  by  the  Sultan  of  Turkey  about  the  time  of  the 
Centennial. 

THE  CLEVELAND  BAY 

constituted  a  well-established  breed  in  the  Cleveland  district, 
Yorkshire,  Eng. ,  as  long  ago  as  1 740.  It  was  named  from 
the  location  and  his  invariable  color,  ranging  from  light  to 
very  dark  bay.  For  at  least  150  years  the  Cleveland  Bay 
has  been  renowned  as  deep  enough  in  breeding  to  insure 
transmission  of  his  popular  and  solid  constitution  and  bay 


THE   DIFFERENT    BREEDS.  l£ 

color,  and  has  been  considered  the  best  general-purpose 
horse  bred  in  England.  During  that  time  a  few  farmers 
kept  the  blood  of  the  Cleveland  Bay  pure,  and  refused  to 
mix  it  with  other  horses  of  the  district.  Some  of  the  long- 
time farm  leases  of  Yorkshire  provide  that  the  favorite 
Cleveland  Bay  mare  and  her  progeny  should  be  bred  pure 


CLEVELAND    BAY    FILLY. 

on  that  farm  during  the  term  of  the  lease,  and  this  has  pre- 
served the  breed  in  all  its  renowned  essentials.  Thirty  years 
ago  a  few  breeders  thus  owned  most  of  the  mares  that  had 
been  bred  pure,  when  a  sudden  demand  sprung  up  for  horses 
with  level  heads,  good  constitution,  large  bone  and  endur- 
ance, and  drew  attention  to  this  breed.  Then  its  friends 
were  rewarded  by  large  prices  for  their  horses.  From  that 


16  THE   DIFFERENT    BREEDS. 

time  they  have  been  most  carefully  bred.  They  are  espe- 
•cially  desirable  for  family  teams  because  of  their  fine  style 
and  action,  level  heads  and  good  disposition.  They  are 
intelligent,  sensible,  good  roadsters,  and  stylish.  For  this 
.reason  they  are  unexcelled  as  teams  for  wealthy  city  men 
who  are  willing  and  able  to  pay  a  good  price. 

THE  YORKSHIRE  BAY. 

Among  the  finest  carriage  horses  in  the  world  is  the  high- 
•class  Yorkshire  Bay,  combining  as  he  does  the  quality  and 
:grace  of  the  Thoroughbred  with  the  strength,  color  and  beauty 
of  form  of  the  Cleveland.  He  is  an  ideal  of  all  that  is  mag- 
nificent and  useful  in  the  carriage  horse.  His  color  is  a  rich, 
shining  bay ;  his  coat  is  as  bright  and  fine  and  as  glossy  and 
as  iridescent  as  that  of  the  race  horse ;  his  legs,  mane  and 
•tail  are  raven  black,  setting  off  the  splendor  of  his  golden 
color.  He  is  strong  and  lengthy ;  he  stands  over  a  great 
•deal  of  ground ;  his  top  has  the  flowing  lines  of  the  Cleve- 
land back  and  level  quarter;  his  ribs  are  well  sprung;  he 
•carries  his  neat  head  and  arched  crest,  as  well  as  his  high-set 
tail,  with  all  the  pride  and  grace  of  an  Arab,  and  no  bearing- 
rein  is  needed  to  make  him  bend.  At  rest  and  in  action  he 
is  a  golden  picture  of  stateliness.  There  may  be  other 
breeds  that  lift  the  knee  higher,  Jbut  the  movement  of  the 
Yorkshire  Bay  is  fine  and  free ;  it  is  not  a  mere  snapping  of 
the  knee  and  flexing  of  the  hocks,  but  he  moves  smoothly, 
evenly  and  with  liberty  from  the  shoulders  and  thighs ;  step- 
ping lightly  and  airily,  yet  with  a  long  reach,  he  covers  the 
ground  swiftly  and  with  ease. 

The  Yorkshire  Bay  is  a  created  type.  Its  home  is  the 
north  and  east  ridings  of  Yorkshire.  It  has  been  formed  by 
selection  and  crossing  the  Cleveland  directly  or  indirectly 
with  the  Thoroughbred. 


THE   DIFFERENT   BREEDS.  I/ 

THE  FRENCH  COACH 

horses  are  a  combination  of  power,  endurance  and  elegance 
that  represents  the  outcome  of  centuries  of  government  pro- 
tection, and  the  careful  breeding  of  the  best  horses  obtainable, 
controlled  by  the  best  minds  trained  for  the  purpose  and  sup- 
ported by  unlimited  means.  No  other  civilized  nation  has 
ever  taken  the  uninterrupted  interest  in  the  improvement  of 
the  equine  race  that  France  has  evinced.  As  early  as  the 
feudal  ages  her  stock  of  horses  had  a  far-reaching  fame,  due 
to  the  individual  necessity  of  the  knight.  As  the  government 
became  more  centralized,  the  powers  of  State  became  respon- 
sible for  the  production  of  a  higher  class  of  horses  for  military 
protection  and  equipment.  As  early  as  1690,  statistics  prove 
France  to  have  had  1600  horses  in  her  federal  studs.  A 
century  later  this  number  had  increased  to  3239  stallions 
that  sired  55,000  living  colts.  From  1815  to  1833  France 
bought  1902  stallions  for  public  service,  and  of  these  223 
came  from  Arabia  and  other  foreign  countries.  The  re- 
mainder were  selections  principally  within  her  own  borders. 
In  1833  a  royal  stud-book  was  established,  and  since  then 
the  improvement  in  horses  has  been  greater  than  ever.  The 
Government  has  kept  one  central  object  constantly  in  view — 
to  encourage  the  people  by  every  possible  means  to  a  higher 
standard  of  breeding,  and  at  the  same  time  to  furnish  them 
the  means  by  which  to  accomplish  this  purpose,  by  introdu- 
cing in  every  locality  the  finest  of  the  different  breeds  and 
types,  which  are  offered  for  service  to  owners  of  choice  mares 
at  nominal  fees.  The  animals  mentioned  are  not  all  owned 
by  the  Government,  but  many  are  owned  by  individuals,  and 
having  been  inspected  and  approved  by  the  authorized  offi- 
cials, are  employed  at  300  to  3000  francs  per  annum,  and 
others  still,  though  not  salaried,  are  recommended  govern- 
mentally  as  worthy  of  public  patronage.  To  prevent  the  use 


1 8  THE    DIFFERENT    BREEDS. 

of  inferior  stock,  all  horses  not  authorized  by  Government  are 
excluded  from  service.  Besides  this,  large  sums  are  annually 
expended  as  prizes  for  choice  colts  reared  under  governmen- 
tal auspices. 

STANDARDBRED  HORSES. 

A  Thoroughbred  horse  is  usually  understood  to  be  a  running 
horse,  while  a  Standardbred  is  one  bred  to  trot.      America 


RYSDYCK'S  HAMIJLKTONIAN. 

and  Russia  are  the  only  two  countries  where  that  artificial 
gait,  the  trot,  has  been  bred  for  and  highly  developed.  The 
importation  of  the  thoroughbred  Messenger, in  1788,  was  the 
beginning  of  an  interest  in  trotting  in  this  country  and  Canada. 
To-day  almost  every  American  trotting  horse  traces  his  pedi- 
gree back  to  old  Messenger,  who  was  foaled  in  1780,  and  who 
in  turn  was  descended  from  Barley's  Arabian.  Messenger 
was  gray,  and  was  15.3  hands  high.  He  was  an  animal  of 


THE    DIFFERENT    BREEDS.  19 

great  vigor  and  soundness,  and  was  a  natural  trotter.  He 
was  the  great  grandsire  of  Hambletonian,  of  whom  an  illus- 
tration is  given  taken  from  a  photograph.  Hambletonian  is 
the  founder  of  the  greatest  trotting  family  the  world  has  ever 
seen.  He  was  foaled  May  5,  1849,  and  died  March  27,. 
1876,  and  was  a  beautiful  bay,  with  white  hind  feet  and  a 
small  white  star  in  his  forehead.  His  excellence  consisted 
in  his  long  trotting  gait,  his  muscular  development  and  the 
quality  of  his  sinews  and  bones.  He  was  never  engaged 
in  any  race. 

The  leading  families  of  Standardbred  horses  are  the 
Hambletonians  just  referred  to;  the  Membrinos,  whose  mod- 
ern head  was  Mambrino  Chief,  a  descendant  of  Messenger; 
the  Bashaws,  the  Clays,  the  Stars,  the  Blue  Bulls,  the 
Canadians,  the  Royal  Georges,  and  several  Morgan  families, 
to  which  a  section  of  the  chapter  is  devoted. 

THE  MORGAN. 

The  Morgan  is  termed  by  many  the  "American  Hackney." 
He  is  known  as  a  stayer.  The  ambition  among  old  Norfolk 
trotter  enthusiasts  was  not  to  go  a  mile  in  two  minutes,  but 
an  unlimited  distance  in  a  limited  time.  The  aim  was  loo 
miles  in  ten  hours  to  saddle,  and  the  Morgan  has  the  ability. 
Circumstances  of  locality  have  influenced  this  breed  for  such 
a  purpose  more  than  any  other  class  of  horses.  The  hills 
of  New  England  prevent  stretches  of  speed,  and  encourage 
staying  powers  against  adverse  conditions.  The  old  Morgan 
appears  to  have  had  size  and  contour  similar  to  the  old  Nor- 
folk, with  greater  substance.  For  long,  steady,  untiring 
work,  the  Morgan  will  unquestionably  come  to  the  front 
again  in  popularity. 

The  history  of  the  breed  dates  back  to  the  foaling  of  Justin 
Morgan,  in  1793.  This  horse  was  taken  from  his  home  at 


2O  THE   DIFFERENT   BREEDS. 

Springfield,  Mass.,  when  two  years  old,  to  Vermont.  He 
was  dark  bay,  fourteen  hands,  and  950  pounds.  His  walk 
was  rapid  and  trot  a  smooth  stride,  and  he  was  noted  for 
courage,  untiring  action  and  beauty.  Justin  Morgan  is  con- 
ceded to  have  much  Arabian  blood  in  him.  He  left  six 
entire  sons — Hawkins,  Sherman,  Bulrush,  Fenton,  Revenge 
and  Woodbury.  Sherman,  Bulrush  and  Woodbury  left  stock 


OLD   ETHAN   ALLEN. 

that  has  made  them  famous.  P>om  the  first  carne  the  Black 
horses  :  Ethan  Aliens,  Lamberts,  Knoxes  and  Herods ;  from 
Bulrush  the  Morrils  and  Fearnaughts,  and  from  Woodbury 
the  Golddusts  and  Magna  Chartas.  The  Morgan  is  a  trotting 
roadster,  only  that  instead  of  turning  off  a  fast  mile  he 
rapidly  covers  many  miles  with  ease.  His  animation  and 
eagerness  make  him  a  general  favorite,  whether  for  pleasure 
or  business.  The  Morgans  are  a  long-lived  race.  Justin 
died  at  29,  Sherman  and  Gifford  at  26,  Revenge  at  22,  Bui- 


THE   DIFFERENT    BREEDS.  21 

rush  at  35,  Billy  Root  at  23  and  Royal  at  37.  Their  •prepo- 
tency for  loo  years  has  been  remarkable.  The  illustration 
shows  Ethan  Allen,  one  of  the  famous  descendants  of  Justin 
Morgan. 

THE  HACKNEY. 

Many  persons  make  the  mistake  of  believing  every  com- 
pactly-built horse  a  Hackney,  when  in  truth  this  animal  is  a 


THE    HACKNEY. 

distinctly  English-bred  trotter  of  exact  type  and  antiquity  of 
origin,  dating,  his  lovers  say,  as  far  back  in  English  literature 
as  1170.  A  Hackney  should  be  bred  for  quality  as  much  as 
possible,  and  he  must  have  bone  and  muscle  enough  to  do 
the  work  required  of  him.  The  demand  is  for  power  enough 
to  draw  four  persons  ten  to  twelve  miles  per  hour  without 


22  THE    DIFFERENT    BREEDS. 

trouble.  The  Hackney  has  made  some  remarkable  records 
as  a  trotter,  and  his  courage  and  intelligence  make  him  an 
aristocrat  among  horses.  Just  at  present  the  fad  of  fashion 
seems  to  have  turned  his  way,  and  probably  one-half  the 
horses  exhibited  in  the  great  horse  shows  of  the  country  are 
Hackneys.  Their  compact  build,  bright  eye  and  high  knee 
action  make  them  sought  after  for  the  carts  and  carriages  of 
the  rich. 

THE  DRAUGHT  HORSE— THE  FARMER'S  HORSE. 

Few   men  who  buy  horses   will    ask    whether   they  are 
Norman,  Clyde,  Belgian,  Percheron  or  Suffolk.     They  only 


PERCHERON    BROOD    MARE. 


•seek  large,  handsome,  good  horses,  reasonably  sound,  with 
free  action,  and  will  pay  good  money  and  be  glad  to  get 
them.  They  are  all  grand  horses,  and  except  for  the  heavily 


THE    DIFFERENT    IJREKDS. 


haired  leg,  or  clean  leg,  no  man  can  tell  one  from  another. 
All  are  most  valuable  and  come  from  one  source. 

They  have  become  what  we  see  them  by  climatic  influence, 
feed  and  environment.  We  must  have  weight  to  suit  the 
city  markets,  A  proud-stepping,  vigorous,  powerful  Draught 
Horse,  with  beautiful  form,  is  eagerly  demanded  by  com- 
merce. Only  high-class  mares  and  the  best  Draught  sires 
can  produce  such  horses.  Too  many  small  chunks  are  bred. 
They  fail  to  bring 
Draught- Horse  prices, 
and  their  breeders  then 
pronounce  Draught- 
Horse  breeding  a  failure. 

A  requisite  for  the  far- 
mer's horse  is  early  ma- 
turity, or  size  and  strength 
to  perform  much  of  the 
farmer's  necessary  work 
while  growing  or  being 
fitted  for  market,  and 
this  without  breaking 
down  or  being  injured  in  any  way  by  such  work. 

He  should  be  of  medium  size,  evenly  proportioned,  with 
flat  limbs  powerfully  jointed,  but  not  coarse.  Bays,  browns 
and  chestnuts  are  the  favorite  colors. 

Select  animals  with  a  swinging  road  gait  that  will  draw 
two  men  a  mile  in  four  minutes,  or  ten  miles  an  hour — a  horse 
that  can  go  fifty  to  sixty  miles  in  a  day  without  feeling  it. 
The  action  shoujd  be  courageous  and  free,  and  he  should 
have  bottom  enough  to  repeat  the  performance  as  frequently 
as  one  may  desire.  It  is  not  difficult  to  get  a  high  price  for 
such  horses.  The  man  who  has  any  Hackneys,  French 
Coachers,  or  Cleveland  Pays,  'is  not  far  out  of  the  way. 


HEAD   OF   DRAUGHT    HORSE. 


24  THE   DIFFERENT    BREEDS. 

There  is  no  brighter  possibility  for  the  farmer  than  in 
breeding  large,  young  native  mares  of  amiable  disposition 
to  full-blood  stallions,  thus  obtaining  half-blood  grades  at 
slight  cost.  Such  animals  are  as  good  for  all  practical  uses  as 
if  full-bloods,  and  sell  as  well  for  all  purposes  except  breeding. 

Why  does  not  some  enterprising  breeder  make  a  specialty 
of  intelligence  in  horses,  as  has  been  done  in  the  case  of  the 


dog  with  marvelous  results  ?     There  would  be  money  in  the 
thing. 

Let  the  breeder  of  horses  school  himself  to  sell  his  stock 
for  just  what  it  is.  He  will  quickly  make  a  good  name  for 
himself,  and  be  able  to  get  for  his  really  good  horses  enough 
to  more  than  recompense  what  he  loses  in  telling  the  truth 
about  the  poorer  ones. 


TtlE   DIFFERENT   BREEDS.  25 

A  good  riding  horse  should  have  a  long  neck  and  carry  its 
head  high.  The  rider  wants  to  see  some  horse  ahead  of  him. 

THE  GOOD  MULE. 

"  It  is  a  poor  mule  that  won't  work  both  ways." 
Having  made  a  business  of  rearing  mules  for  market,  I 
have  learned  many  things  concerning  the  breeding  and  use- 
fulness of  this  animal  that  those  persons  should  have  who 
are  convinced  he  is  a  vicious  and  untrustworthy  brute. 

To  breed  anything  like  the  ideal  mule,  greater  care  must 
be  exercised  in  the  selection  of  sire  and  dam  than  is  neces- 
sary in  producing  a  model  horse.  How  many  ill-shaped,, 
ugly  mules  we  see,  each  the  result  of  careless  breeding !  I 
have  been  taught  by  observation  that  more  depends  upon  the 
sire  than  upon  the  dam  in  getting  an  ideal  mule  foal.  Good 
points,  however,  come  readily  from  both  sides.  Some  men, 
in  selecting  a  Jack,  look  to  his  height,  and,  for  such,  the 
more  daylight  found  under  him  the  better.  What  foolish 
men !  The  Jack  must  be  low  and  heavily  quartered,  with 
large  bone  and  a  neat  head.  This  sire  will  bring  good 
mules  nearly  every  time.  Some  men  who  own  curby,  heavy- 
crooked  mares  say,  " They '11  do  to  raise  mules."  This 
carelessness,  coupled  with  ignorance,  accounts  for  the  great 
number  of  degenerated  hybrids. 

A  mule  possesses  keener  instinct  than  a  horse,  and  for  this 
reason  is  easily  trained.  He  should  be  handled  from  the 
very  beginning  of  his  life.  A  small  leather  halter  should 
be  worn  about  the  stable  for  the  purpose  of  holding  him 
while  being  patted  and  rubbed  about  the  head.  This  kind 
treatment  will  win  respect  for  the  owner  of  the  most  stubborn 
little  hybrid  for  all  future  time.  I  have  never  found  an  ex- 
ception to  this  rule.  I  have  found,  however,  that  by  tickling 
and  teasing,  it  is  easy  to  get  an  all-round  kicker.  The  young 


THE    DIFFERENT    BREEDS. 


mule  should  be  bitted  when  rising  in  his  second  year,  and 
harnessed  to  light  work.  I  have  never  seen  a  mule  that  I 
could  not  train  to  be  good  and  gentle  by  handling  him  firmly, 
but  easily  and  quietly.  A  good,  tough  mule  will  usually  show 


TIM'S   TEAM. 


it  when  a  stranger  approaches  him.      He  will  be  shy.      This 
shyness  is  his  staple  virtue,  and  means  snap. 

What  is  the  mule  best  adapted  to?  and  what  is  he  not 
adapted  to?  I  use  mules  only  on  my  farm  and  have  no 
horses.  The  mule  is  harnessed  for  all  purposes,  from  plow  • 


THE   DIFFERENT    BREEDS.  2/ 

ing  in  new  ground  to  attending  funerals — both  solemn  occa- 
sions. He  has  a  swinging  gait,  peculiar  to  himself,  that 
makes  him  a  speedy  animal  for  such  farm  work  as  mowing 
and  raking,  cultivating  and  reaping.  He  is  especially  well 
adapted  to  the  coach,  being  sufficiently  speedy  and  exceed- 
ingly plucky,  and  handsome  enough  for  any  king  to  sit 
behind.  General  George  Washington,  much  noted  for 
keeping  handsome  horses,  was  also  an  extensive  raiser  of 
mules.  Among  the  hills  of  Pennsylvania,  where  lumbering 
and  mining  is  so  extensively  carried  on,  the  mule  is  king  of 
the  collar.  In  this  county  (Westmoreland)  the  mule  market 
is  always  good.  I  am  happy  to  say  the  tariff  never  affects 
our  mule  market  very  much.  Among  the  mountains  of 
Western  Pennsylvania  the  mule  is  an  indispensable  beast,  as 
much  as  on  the  cotton  and  tobacco  plantations,  and  in  the 
cane  brakes  of  the  sunny  South. 

Speaking  of  mules,  Rufus  Mason  says :  To  a  young  man 
courting  a  girl  whom  he  suspects  is  not  quite  as  sensible  as 
she  ought  to  be,  he  can  go  on  horseback ;  but  the  day  after 
the  wedding,  trade  off  the  horses  and  get  a  first-rate  mule 
team.  She  won't  dress  so  fine  to  ride  behind  mules;  and, 
seeing  that  the  mules  are  sensible  and  businesslike,  she  will 
have  a  good  example  before  her. 

SHETLAND  PONY. 

The  Shetland  ponies  are  from  thirty-four  to  forty-four 
inches  high.  They  are  very  hardy  and  strong,  with  long 
manes  and  tails.  These  are  a  protection  to  them  in  the  cold 
climate  in  which  they  are  reared.  They  have  long  and 
shaggy  coats.  After  being  in  America  a  few  years  their 
coats  become  finer.  The  Shetland  Islands,  where  they  come 
from,  are  north  of  Scotland.  The  pasture  is  scanty,  and  the 
climate  severe.  This  is  why  they  have  become  so  small. 


28 


THE    DIFFERENT    BREEDS. 


They  will  carry  a  full-grown  man,  but  the  trouble  is  to  find 
a  good  place  for  the  rider's  feet.  But  they  are  just  adapted 
to  the  boy  and  girl. 

A  child  will  get  more  fun,  physical  development,  and 
ruddy  health  to  the  square  inch  with  a  pony,  than  in  any 
other  way.  The  child  who  has  a  pony  should  be  taught  to 
care  for  it.  In  this  way  the  little  boy  or  girl  can  take  in 
horse  sense,  and  this  knowledge  of  how  to  do  things  will  be 


A, FRIEND    OF   THE   BOYS   AND   GIRLS. 


of  great  benefit  to  them.  The  pony  will  think  more  of  them 
and  they  will  think  more  of  the  pony.  There  is  now  a  great 
demand  for  ponies,  and  there  will  be  more  as  people  find  out 
how  much  good  it  is  for  the  children  to  own  them. 

The  picture  represents  Sparkle,  a  beautiful  specimen  owned 
by  J.  Murray  Hoag,  of  Maquoketa,  Iowa,  who  imports  large 
numbers  of  them. 


SHOWING 

1.  Mouth. 

2.  Pharynx. 

3.  (Esophagus. 

4.  Diaphragm. 

5.  Spleen. 

6.  Stomach. 

7.  Duodenum. 

8.  Liver,  upper  extremity. 

9.  Large  colon. 

*  Haines,  after  Megniii.     From  Prof.  Michener  in  U.  S.  Gov. 
Report  on  Diseases  of  Animals. 


DIGESTIVE   APPARATUS.* 

10.   Qecum. 

n.   Small  intestine. 

12.  Floating  colon. 

13.  Rectum. 

14.  Anus. 

15.  Left  kidney  and  its  ureter. 

1 6.  Bladder. 

17.  Urethra. 


CHAPTER    II. 

FEEDING   AND    WATERING. 

Observations  on  Feeding — Rules  for  Watering — Salting — 
Feeding  Conveniences  and  Watering  Tank  and  Trough — 
General  Notes. 

Of  food  and  drink  give  me  the  best, 
From  brutal  treatment  keep  me  free  ; 

Give  me  when  tired  a  little  rest, 
And  see  how  useful  I  can  be. 

A  horse  has  a  smaller  stomach  than  an  ox  and  conse- 
quently it  must  be  fed  less  at  a  time.  It  has  less  power  to 
digest  coarse  foods.  It  eats  much  slower,  as  it  must  do  all 
its  chewing  before  the  food  is  swallowed.  For  these  reasons 
it  requires  a  longer  time  to  eat  and  its  food  should  be  more 
concentrated.  It  wants  only  a  little  coarse  food  at  a  time. 

Most  people  feed  too  much  rather  than  too  little.  Two 
pounds  per  day  of  hay  and  grain  for  each  loo  pounds  of  live 
weight,  is  usually  enough  for  good  working  condition.  A 
general  all-round  good  ration  for  any  horse  consists  of  six 
parts  bran,  three  of  oats  and  one  of  linseed-oil  meal.  It  is  a 
grand  combination  for  muscle,  for  work  and  for  health.  In 
cold  weather  corn  should  be  added,  and  the  cornmeal,  oats 
and  bran  may  be  of  equal  wreight,  still  adding  a  little  linseed 
meal.  Feed  a  small  amount  of  hay  twice  a  day. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  farmers  generally  depend  too  much 
on  corn  to  feed  their  work  horses.  Corn  is  good  to  lay  on 
fat,  but  muscle  is  what  a  work  horse  needs,  to  give  which 


32  FEEDING   AND    WATERING. 

oats  are  a  much  better  feed.  However  plentiful  corn  may 
be,  it  should  be  fed  sparingly.  Lay  on  as  much  muscle  as 
you  please,  the  more  the  better,  but  a  horse  overburdened 
with  fat  is  unable  to  stand  as  much  hard  work  as  one  whose 
muscles  are  better  developed. 

Great  care  and  regularity  should  be  given  to  watering  and 
feeding.  The  water  should  in  summer  be  clean,  fresh  and 
cool,  and  in  the  winter  should  be  free  from  ice.  Every 
liorse  should  have  cut  hay,  straw,  corn-fodder,  or  wheat 
•chaff,  wetted  and  mixed  with  bran,  at  least  once  a  day  the 
year  round.  In  the  hot  weather  a  horse  should  not  be  fed 
much  corn.  Bran  and  oats  are  much  better.  The  more 
work  the  more  feed,  of  course. 

The  practice  of  feeding  the  horse  when  tired  and  thirsty 
l.s  altogether  too  common,  and  then  too  with  the  extra  thirst 
of  a  full  meal  allow  it  to  gorge  itself  with  water.  When 
this  is  done  the  horse  should  remain  quiet  for  a  full  hour 
before  starting  on  the  road  or  at  hard  work  to  get  space  for 
its  lungs  to  play  and  its  heart  to  beat,  by  the  digestion  of  the 
food  and  its  removal  to  the  bowels. 

Did  you  ever  get  in  your  mouth  or  on  your  plate  some 
potato  that  had  soured  in  the  hot  weather?  If  so,  you  know 
something  of  the  misery  a  horse  must  suffer  when  compelled 
to  take  all  his  food  from  a  sour  marlger.  Cut  food,  moist- 
•ened,  is  very  likely  to  sour  the  manger.  The  good  horseman 
will  always  bend  over  it  when  tying  his  charges.  Sourness 
is  easily  detected  and  easily  cured  by  a  pail  of  scalding 
water.  A  pinch  of  charcoal  dust  thrown  in  the  manger 
•daily  will  help  keep  things  sweet  and  prevent  acidity  in  the 
horse's  stomach. 

If  the  horse  eats  lots  of  grain  and  does  not  do  well,  it 
must  have  sore  teeth  or  a  poor  digestion.  It  is  an  easy  thing 
to  have  the  teeth  smoothed  so  it  can  eat  well.  If  the  trouble 


FEEDING   AND   WATERING.  33 

is  in  the  stomach,  feed  less  grain.  Too  much  grain  will  often 
make  a  disordered  stomach,  and  the  animal  will  do  better  on 
less. 

The  breath  of  a  horse  or  any  other  animal  upon  its  food  is 
unwholesome.  For  this  reason  put  into  the  manger  only  food 
enough  for  one  meal. 

Meal  is  not  a  natural  food  for  a  horse  which  can  chew 
well.  They  eat  it  too  fast  and  it  does  not  get  enough  saliva 
with  it  to  digest  well.  The  saliva  is  the  first  secretion  in  the 
process  of  digestion  and  it  must  do  its  part  to  have  the  food 
agree  fully  with  the  animal. 

Green  forage  crops  must  be  fed  with  discretion  and  not 
largely  at  first,  or  the  result  will  be  profuse  sweating,  result- 
ing in  weakness,  and  sometimes  colic.  It  is  never  safe  to 
turn  horses  with  strong,  unsatisfied  appetites  for  green  crops 
loose  in  the  rank  growth. 

Every  barn  should  have  a  bran  bin  which  should  be  re- 
plenished annually  at  the  time  when  bran  is  low  in  price.  Its 
cost  per  ton  is  usually  as  low  or  lower  than  that  of  the  best 
hay.  Bran  should  be  fed  liberally  when  the  old  coat  is 
shedding,  and  each  horse  should  be  treated  to  a  daily  ration 
in  summer.  Its  tendency  is  laxative,  keeping  the  entire 
system  cool,  and  its  effect  upon  the  skin  excellent,  prevent- 
ing surface  irritation  common  among  animals  fed  largely 
upon  corn.  Four  quarts  of  bran  with  a  pint  to  a  quart  of  oil 
meal  lightly  saUed  will  appeal  keenly  to  the  horse's  taste. 

Potatoes  are  an  excellent  food  for  horses  during  the 
winter,  in  connection  with  other  food,  keeping  their  bowels 
open  and  their  skins  loose. 

There  is  nothing  better  than  sweet  apples  to  help  put  a 
horse  in  fine  condition.  Give  them  four  quarts  at  a  mess 
three  times  a  day  with  the  grain.  Few  people  realize  the 
value  of  sweet  apples  as  a  relish  for  horses. 


34  FEEDING   AND    WATERING. 

One  of  the  most  useful  foods  whether  green  or  hayed  is 
oats  and  peas.  The  crop  is  easily  raised  in  large  quantities  on 
rich  land  well  prepared,  where  one-half  bushel  of  peas  are 
sown  with  two  and  one-half  bushels  of  oats  per  acre.  As  soon 
as  the  peas  are  in  full  bloom  the  fodder  is  ready  for  use,  and 
all  should  be  cut  for  feeding  or  drying  before  the  peas  are 
ripe.  If  it  should  happen  to  be  dull  weather  and  the  crop 
matures,  no  harm  has  been  done,  because  it  can  be  cured, 
run  through  the  threshing  machine  and  straw  cutter,  moist- 
ened, and  the  ground  oats  and  peas  sprinkled  over  it. 

Experienced  horsemen  understand  that  with  a  heavy  feed 
of  oats,  at  night,  and  a  light  breakfast,  a  horse  gets  a 
reserved  stock  of  muscular  strength  laid  in  in  advance,  and 
travels  faster  and  further  than  one  having  a  hearty  morning 
feed. 

A  warm  bran  mash  does  good  occasionally.  Don't  let  the 
bowels  of  any  horse  become  constipated. 

A  night  pasture  for  work  horses  will  help  to  cool  their 
blood.  Give  them  their  grain  ration  just  the  same. 

There  are  a  few  horses  whose  stomachs  will  not  tolerate 
rye  in  any  form  ;  will  either  get  colic  or  staggers.  Rye  is 
always  a  dangerous  feed  when  given  alone. 

Spasmodic  salting  is  all  wrong  for  any  animal,  and  espe- 
cially for  horses.  It  may  cause  colic,  and  often  does.  The 
horse  eats  too  much  salt  at  a  time,  if  only  salted  now  and 
then,  and  when  this  is  the  case  the  coats  of  the  stomach  and 
the  bowels  are  irritated,  and  congestion  takes  place  and  ex- 
cessive thirst.  The  horse  then  drinks  too  much  and  a  chill 
follows,  and  this  makes  more  congestion  and  inflammation 
may  follow,  and  colic  and  a  set-back,  if  not  death.  What 
is  the  use  of  such  doings  ?  It  is  just  as  easy,  and  easier,  to 
be  more  sensible,  and  to  keep  salt  before  the  horse  all  the 
time,  and  then  it  will  partake  as  directed  by  its  instincts,  and 


FEEDING   AND    WATERING.  35 

only  a  lick  will  be  eaten.  Prepare  the  horse  for  the  con- 
stant supply  by  giving  it  a  little  every  day  for  a  week,  and 
then  no  harm  will  come. 

Teamsters  should  feed  their  own  horses,  and  every  team- 
ster who  takes  pride  in  his  team  should  handle  the  measure 
himself,  and  should  make  appetite  and  digestion  of  food  a 
subject  of  study. 

Horses  refuse  their  feed  because  of  overwork,  too  little 
exercise,  or  because  the  food  is  not  right  in  some  way,  sore- 
ness of  mouth  or  teeth,  or  general  faulty  management.  If 
the  trouble  is  due  to  overfeeding,  short  rations  for  a  day  or 
two  will  remedy  it.  Food  that  is  not  eaten  within  a  reason- 
able time  should  be  removed  from  the  manger  and  the  ration 
correspondingly  reduced.  No  animal  should  have  more 
than  he  will  eat  up  clean.  When  a  horse  refuses  to  eat  and 
becomes  thin  and  weak  for  no  apparent  reason,  he  should 
have  some  condiment  to  increase  the  appetite.  A  good 
combination  is  the  following :  Ground  oats  and  corn,  of 
each  five  pounds  ;  oil  meal,  four  ounces;  salt,  two  ounces  j 
a  dessertspoonful  of  powdered  gentian,  and  a  small  tea- 
spoonful  of  dried  sulphate  of  iron.  If  the  animal  refuses 
the  ration  a  little  starvation  will  make  him  taste  it,  when  his 
dislike  will  cease  at  once.  Begin  with  a  small  quantity  of 
this  mixture  for  each  meal,  and  increase  it  gradually  until  a- 
full  ration  is  being  fed. 

Water  your  horse  before  you  give  him  hay.  Give  hirrr 
hay  before  you  give  him  grain.  Give  the  concentrated  food 
last.  His  stomach  is  not  large  enough  to  hold  all  at  once. 

The  digestion  of  food  is  frequently  badly  retarded  or  pre- 
vented by  mistakes  in  watering.  Water  should  always  be 
offered  the  horse  twenty  minutes  before  he  is  fed,  and  neves 
less  than  two  hours  after  feeding.  The  drink  is  rapidly 
taken  from  the  stomach  by  the  intestines,  and  the  time  meik- 


FEEDING   AND    WATERING. 


tioned  is  sufficient  to  distribute  three  or  four  gallons  of  water 
throughout  the  digestive  tract,  diluting  the  salivary  secretion 
so  as  to  supply  all  water  needed  for  digestion  of  the  food. 
When  regular  watering  is  practiced  no  water  will  be  craved 
soon  after  food.  To  observe  this  method  prevents  the  wash- 
ing of  undigested  food  from  the  stomach  into  the  intestines, 
where  it  ferments,  producing  gas  and  resulting  in  colic. 

THE  BARN  TANK. 

There  is  no  greater  convenience  in  and  about  a  horse  barn 
than  water  obtainable  instantly  and  at  wholesale.  Many 
persons  are  not  situated  where  they 
can  have  pipe  water  at  command,  and 
will  delight  in  arranging  a  tank  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  barn  which  may  be 
kept  full  by  the  use  of  a  hand  or 
power  pump.  This  tank  should  have 
an  overflow  pipe  so  that  it  will  never 
be  rilled  so  full  as  to  make  trouble. 
It  need  not  be  anything  more  than  a 
cask  well  hooped  and  painted.  A  loo-gallon  box  lined 
with  metal  will  answer  better,  pernaps,  in  quickly  supply- 
ing drink  for  the  horses,  water  for  sponging  their  feet  and 
legs,  washing  carriages,  washing  the  floors  and  windows, 
etc.  A  hose  is  a  great  aid  to  the  rapid  washing  of  windows, 
and  with  a  tank  in  the  loft  one  is  as  independent  of  city 
water  works  as  of  Niagara.  In  connection  with  the  water 
system  every  one  should  have  a  slatted  platform  an  inch  or 
two  above  the  ground,  where  the  wagons  may  be  drawn  for 
washing.  Here  the  water  and  mud  are  instantly  washed 
away,  so  that  the  hands  and  sponge  are  kept  clean 
avoiding  varnish  scratching,  and  the  feet  are  not  kept  in  a 
puddle. 


FEEDING   AND   WATERINr,. 


37 


FIG.   I. 


The  most  economical  troughs  are  those  made  from  plank. 
Use  pine  plank  two  inches  thick.  The  plank  must  contain 
no  knots  or  wind  shakes,  nor  large  cracks.  The  excellence 
of  this  sort  of  a  trough  especially  depends  upon  the  way  in 
which  it  is  made.  Two  drawings 
will  show  best  and  quickest  the  right 
and  the  wrong  way.  Letting  one  part 
into  another  makes  the  trough  tighter, 
and  if  let  in  as  shown  in  Fig.  I, 
and  not  as  shown  in  Fig.  2,  the 
trough  will  be  made  much  stronger 
and  more  durable.  The  bottom  is 
let  into  the  sides  also.  Smooth  the 
edges  to  be  let  in.  Lay  them  against  the  plank  to  be 
grooved,  make  a  mark  close  to  each  edge,  and  then  savsr 
just  a  little  inside  of  each  mark,  so  the  groove  is  a  little 
narrower  than  the  edge  to  be  fitted  in  it.  Saw  a  long  quarter 
of  an  inch  deep  and  then  chip  out  the  wood  with  a  chisel, 
making  the  groove  of  the  same  depth  throughout.  Paint  the 
groove  and  edge  with  thick  paint — 
brown  mineral  paint  is  cheapest  and 
best — before  they  are  put  together. 
As  Fig.  I  does  not  show  the  end  piece 
let  into  the  bottom,  the  reader  is  safe 
in  concluding  that  the  better  way  is 
to  let  the  end  of  the  bottom  into  the 
end  piece.  The  bolts  should  be  of  FIG  2, 

iron,  one-half  inch  in  diameter.     With 

the  grooves  they  will  hold  the  trough  well  together,  and  no- 
nails  should  be  used.  Such  a  trough  is  durable.  Bore  a 
hole  in  the  bottom  of  every  trough  and  fit  it  with  a  hard- 
wood plug.  Then  the  water  can  be  let  out  of  freezing 
nights.  If  a  stout  tarred  string  is  tied  to  the  end  of  the 


38  FEEDING   AND   WATERING. 

plug  and  fastened  to  the  top  of  the  trough,  the  plug  will 
not  be  lost,  and  one  will  not  have  sometimes  to  reach  into 
cold  water  to  pull  out  the  plug.  It  pays  to  have  plenty 
of  good  troughs  about  the  farm. 

The  horse  that  eats  his  grain  too  hastily  is  sure,  sooner  or 
later,  to  become  a  dyspeptic.  Bolted  food  cannot  be  assim- 
ilated, and  hence  is  worse  than  wasted,  as  it  deranges  and 
poisons  the  digestive  organs.  Some  horses,  whose  stomachs 
are  already  out  of  order  more  or  less,  from  the  vice  of 
too  eager  eating,  will  plunge  their  noses  into  the  oats  nearly 
to  the  eyes,  fill  their  mouths  and  fairly  crowd  the  food 
<lown  their  own  throats.  To  prevent  disease  is  always  better 
than  endeavors  to  cure  it.  Realizing 
this  truth  many  a  horse  owner  has  tried 
in  various  ways  to  force  a  slow  consump- 
tion of  food  in  his  stables.  Some  spread 
the  oats  in  the  bottom  of  a  large  manger; 
others  keep  a  peck  of  small  stones  there, 
from  between  which  the  horse  is  com- 
pelled to  pick  his  food.  Good  horsemen 
of  New  York  state  have  widely  adopted  the  slow  delivery 
•chute.  It  is  built  into  the  manger,  as  the  cut  shows,  and 
reaches  to  within  half  an  inch  of  its  bottom.  A  metal 
manger  should  be  used,  or  a  wooden  one  lined  with  tin  or 
iron,  as  a  greedy  horse  will  destroy  it  by  gnawing  because 
dissatisfied  with  rational  eating.  Colts  brought  up  at  such 
mangers  will  rarely  become  gourmands  afterwards,  and  are 
doubly  valuable  tecause  so  seldom  cut  of  condition,  with 
resultant  colic,  etc. 

It  is  a  waste  of  time  and  increase  of  trouble  to  ro  into  the 
loft  whenever  the  horses  are  to  be  fed.  It  is  convenient  and 
economical  to  cut  a  week's  supply  of  hay  at  one  time,  say 
during  a  shower  or  when  a  change  of  work  is  desired. 


FEEDING   AND   WATERING. 


39 


The  hay  is  not  thrown  down  haphazard  to  create  a  dust  all 

through  the  barn  and  set  the  horses  coughing,  but  is  cut  into 

a  chute,  made  dust  tight  with  putty. 

This  is  located  under,  the  stairs  in 

one  corner   out   of    the  way,    and 

a  slope  bottom  renders  every  ounce 

of   the    cut    hay   easily   available.  m    \    /  ,<*. 

To   prevent  clogging  and  increase 

the  storage  capacity,  the  chute  was 

built    larger   at   the    bottom    than 

at  I  he  top. 


BIN  / 


READY   FOR    BRKAKFAST. 


CHAPTER  III. 

IN   THE   STABLE   AND   AT   WORK. 

The  Stable  Should  Be  Light,  Clean  and  Free  from  Bad 
Odors  ;  the  Floor  Even — Grooming — Bedding — Conven- 
iences—  The  Good  Teamster  —  Overloading  —  Trotting 
Down  Hill. 

Feed  me  on  good  oats  and  hay, 
Give  me  drink  three  times  a  day  ; 
In  the  pasture  let  me  play, 
Groom  me  well,  for  it  will  pay. 

A  good  horseman  cannot  be  too  careful  about  his  stable. 
It  should  be  well  ventilated,  scrupulously  clean,  well  drained, 

and  have  low  mangers  and 
a  floor  that  never  gets  out 
of  true  from  wearing  by  the 
shoes  or  settling  of  the 
building.  There  is  no  floor 
that  is  better  than  plank, 
all  things  considered,  but 
it  should  not  slope  too 
much  from  front  to  rear,  as  is  often  the  case. 

It  is  well  to  have  the  floor  supplemented  by  a  lower  floor 
which  has  a  more  decided  slope,  the  surface  floor  to  consist 
of  two  to  three-inch  planks  one-half  to  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  apart,  held  in  place  by  cleats  or  iron  rods.  This  sur- 
face floor  may  be  leveled  up  by  resting  on  a  thick  cross- 
piece  at  the  rear  and  a  very  thin  one  or  none  at  all  forward. 
The  perfect  stable  floor  should  stop  one  foot  or  more  short  of 


IN   THE  STABLE   AND   AT   WORK.  4E 

the  manger,  where  the  horse's  fore  feet  come  when  he  is- 
ieeding.  This  space  should  be  filled  with  earth,  wh'ch  is 
beneficial  in  cooling  the  feet,  keeping  the  frogs  healthy,  and 
which  he  will  paw  to  a  level  he  finds  most  restful. 

The  sub-floor  must  have  a  decided  slope  and  be  cleaned 
often  by  raising  the  level  surface  floor  and  sifting  dry  earth 
through  it. 

Another  good  floor  is  made  of  solid  concrete,  two  inches 
higher  forward  than  back.  On  this  is  a  slat  floor  for  the  ani- 
mals to  stand  upon.  The  slats  are  four  inches  thick  at  the 
rear  and  only  two  inches  thick  forward,  thus  making  the 
floor  level.  The  planks  cover  the  gutter,  making  the  stable 
neat  in  every  respect. 

The  stable  must  be  light  or  the  eyes  will  be  injured.  The 
air  must  be  pure  or  the  lungs  will  be  impaired.  A  foul 
stable  will  sicken  the  horses.  The  horse  stables  should  be 
cleaned  every  day.  Use  plenty  of  plaster  to  absorb  the 
ammonia,  and  see  that  the  ventilation  is  good  and  that  there 
are  no  draughts. 

It  will  certainly  injure  the  horse's  eyes  to  take  it  from  a. 
dark  stable  into  the  glare  of  sunlight  reflected  from  snow. 
The  injury  may  be  slight,  and  it  may  be  serious.  If  re- 
peated, it  may  make  the  horse  blind.  The  remedy  is  a  light 
stable.  A  light  stable — made  so  by  glass  windows — is  more 
healthy  than  a  dark  one. 

Sometimes  slight  settling  of  the  barn  will  slope  the  stall 
floors  toward  the  manger,  or  make  them  so  level  that  urine- 
will  cause  trouble.  Besides  rendering  the  horse  more  diffi- 
cult to  keep  clean,  the  ammonia  generated  ^_^_____^. 
will  be  a  dangerous  admixture  in  the  air  [_J\V__xZL_ 
for  the  animal's  lungs  and  eyes. 

Any  person  who  has  used  a  scraper  like 
the  one  shown  in  the  engraving  will  never  be  without  one.     It 


42  IN   THE   STABLE   AND   AT   WORK. 

is  merely  a  2 -foot  board  edged  with  hoop  iron  and  fastened  to 
a  brace  and  handle.  After  thoroughly  shaking  up  and  re- 
moving the  bedding  no  shovel  will  so  quickly  scrape  out 
the  stable. 

Soaked  bedding  it  is  necessary  to  dry  each  day,  especially 
in  village  stables.  There  is  nothing  that  will  so  quickly  ac- 
complish the  purpose  as  the 
frame  and  wheelbarrow  shown. 
Bedding  may  be  placed  upon 
this  two  inches  deep,  wheeled 
into  the  sun  and  wind  and 
dried  in  an  hour,  as  the  wind 
penetrates  it  from  below  as  well 
as  on  all  sides.  All  that  is  necessary  is  a  sound  wheel. 
Pieces  of  scantling  firmly  nailed  together  improvise  the 
remainder  of  the  contrivance. 

A  good  hook  for  the  harness  may  be  made  of  a  piece  of  inch 
and  a  half  oak  plank  three  inches  wide  and  eighteen  inches 
long.  Six  inches  from  one  end  a  hole  should  be  bored  by 
which  it  is  screwed  to  the  side  of  the  post  or  other  upright. 
Near  the  outer  edge  of  this  beam  a  cleat  should  be  nailed, 
on  which  the  oak  stick  may  rest  wh^ri  turned  down.  A  heavy 
nail  driven  over  its  rear  end  will  also  help  steady  it  if  the 
weight  be  heavy.  Of  course,  the  holder  may  be  shaped  as 
neatly  as  one  desires.  When  not  in  use  it  may  be  turned 
up  out  of  the  way. 

Careful  and  thorough  grooming  is  almost  as  essential  as 
feeding  and  cannot  be  dispensed  with  profitably.  Many  who 
care  for  their  own  horses  detest  the  work,  but  largely  because 
they  do  not  do  it  in  the  easiest  way,  which  is  the  most  sys- 
tematic. 

Procure  a  well-made,  rice-root  brush,  and  with  this  in  one 
hand  and  a  currycomb  in  the  other,  start  the  job  at  the  horse's 


TN    THE   STABLE    AND    AT    WORK.  43 

head  on  the  near  side.  Never  use  the  comb  on  head,  mane 
nor  tail.  Carefully  brush  the  left  side  of  the  head  until  it  is 
clean  and  shiny.  Then  proceed  to  the  neck,  thence  to  the 
shoulders,  using  the  comb  now  to  loosen  up  the  hair  and 
dirt,  and  only  advancing  as  the  portion  under  consideration 
is  thoroughly  cleansed  and  beautified.  Before  touching  the 
body  scrape,  brush,  clean  and  smooth  the  left  side  of  both 
forward  legs.  When  all  of  this  side  has  been  well  groomed 
down  to  the  last  hair  of  both  hind  feet,  the  tail  must  be 
carefully  and  persistently  brushed.  This  done,  proceed  to 
the  right  side  of  the  head  and  follow  the  formula  given  for 
the  left  side.  If  the  head  is  difficult  to  groom  satisfactorily, 
rub  the  hair  the  wrong  way  with  the  brush  and  then  smooth 
it.  This  will  soon  conquer  the  worst  case  and  do  it  agree- 
ably to  the  horse. 

Be  gentle  with  the  horses.  Nervous  excitement  deranges 
the  digestive  organs.  Worry  the  horse  by  voice  or  whip  and 
he  will  be  thin,  no  matter  what  you  feed  him.  Even  a 
horse  appreciates  a  musical  voice,  with  a  kind  intonation. 

In  cleaning  horses  after  coming  in  from  work,  or  in  the 
morning,  if  the  floor  back  of  your  stalls  is  large  enough  to 
clean  horses  in,  they  should  be  cleaned  there  in  preference 
to  the  stall.  Put  a  screw-eye  in  the  wall  up  as  high  as  you 
can  reach,  tie  a  hitch  rein  with  a  snap  to  it ;  right  opposite 
to  this,  in  the  stall  post,  put  another  screw-eye  or  screw  ring, 
lead  your  horse  out  and  snap  the  hitch  rein  in  the  side 
ring  of  the  halter,  then  tie  the  halter  rein  in  the  ring 
opposite.  You  can  get  around  him  without  trouble,  and 
if  he  should  happen  to  be  a  biter,  he  can't  get  at  you. 

After  going  over  his  body  with  currycomb,  take  a  com- 
mon broom  and  brush  all  the  dust  off  of  him  you  can.  It 
will  take  out  lots  of  dust  in  a  short  time.  If  your  comb  is 
new  and  teeth  sharp,  run  a  file  over  them  a  few  times. 


44  IN    THE    STABLE   AND    AT    WORK. 

After  brushing,  take  a  cloth  and  go  over  him  from  head  to- 
heel,  pick  out  his  feet  with  an  article  like  this, 
called  a  foot  hook  (one  side  is  a  hook  about  an 
inch  and  a  half  long,  the  other  chisel-shaped), 
and  he  is  ready  to  go  to  his  stall.  Horse's  feet 
should  be  examined  every  day.  The  second 
illustration  is  called  a  scraper,  for  taking  off  sweat 

or  mud.  It  is  made  of  hard  wood 
about  a  foot  long,  one  inch  wide, 
sharp  edges  and  slightly  bent  near 

the  end.      An  old  piece  of  grass  matting  is  a  good  thing  to' 
take  mud  off  the  legs  with. 

To  dispose  of  your  horse's  foretop,  if  heavy,  try  parting 
in  the  middle  before  putting  on  the  bridle. 

Fetlocks  may  catch  and  hold  mud  and  ice  and  be  harder 
to  clean  than  clipped  ankles,  but  certainly  they  keep  off 
wind  and  prevent  direct  contact  of  ice  with  the  skin  ;  there- 
fore, don't  bare  the  ankles.  If  frozen  in  tags  they  may  be 
cleaned  and  dried  quickly  by  dipping  in  hot  water  and 
sawing  with  an  old  sack.  It  is  easier  and  more  speedy  than 
rubbing.  The  heat  produced  will. leave  the  fetlocks  dry. 

The  old  feed  bag,  too  full  of  holes  to  be  worth  mending, 
is  good  for  nothing,  eh  ?  Saw  the  wet  and  muddy  legs  of 
the  tired  horse  with  it,  and  see  how  dry  and  clean  they  will 
become.  The  labor  isn't  great,  but  the  results  are. 

No  brush  will  take  the  dust  out  of  a  horse's  coat  and 
make  it  glisten  like  a  stiff  broom  in  the  hands  of  a  strong, 
energetic  man.  Its  handle  must  be  cut  off  to  two  feet.  It 
seems  to  afford  sufficient  leverage  so  considerable  power 
may  be  brought  to  bear  on  the  coat. 

During  the  shedding  season,  use  only  an  old  and  dull 
currycomb.  A  sharp  one  will  inflict  pain,  a  thing  the 
humane  person  will  avoid. 


IX   THE   STABLE   AND    AT    WORK. 


45 


There  is  nothing  so  sweet,  clean,  and  economical  for  the 
horse's  bed  as  sawdust,  where  straw  is  too  expensive.  Tan 
bark  and  sawdust  mixed  also  make  a  good  bed. 

Never  tie  a  horse  so  long  that  he  can  put  his  head  on  the 
floor.  If  he  can  put  his  head  down  he  is  likely  to  roll  and 
get  cast. 

To  get  horses  from  a  burning  barn  or  stable,  when  panic- 
stricken,  put  the  harness  on  them  and  they  can  then  be 
easily  and  safely  removed.  If  no  harness  is  at  hand  one's 
coat  or  blanket  thrown  over  his  head  makes  him  tractable. 

The  way  to  hang  the  lantern  in  the  stable  is  to  stretch  a 
wire  tight  overhead  far  enough  behind  the  horses  to  be  out 
of  the  way,  and  to  attach  a  hook  to  this  wire  on  which  the 
lantern  is  hung — and  have  the  hook  so  loose  that  it  will  slide 
along  easily.  When  this  is  done,  the  lantern  will  not  be 
upset,  and  danger  from  fire  will  be  lessened. 

Do  not  get  it  into  your  head  that  a  man  can  work  a  team 
and  take  the  right  kind  of  care  of  them,  or  anywhere  near 
it,  and  do  a  lot  of  chores,  say  milk  nine  or  ten  cows,  feed 
and  water  fifteen  or  twenty  hogs,  cut  all  the  wood,  etc.,  and 
whoever  expects  it  is  very  apt  to  be  disappointed.  That  is, 
when  the  team  is  doing  hard  work  every  day  that  is  usual  on 
a  farm  in  the  busy  season. 

The  intelligent  reader  will  not  be  slow  to  see  the  advan- 
tages of  the  idea  of  the  illustration 
herewith.  The  horse  or  colt  that  is 
accustomed  to  getting  cast  in  the 
stall,  can  be  prevented  from  doing 
so  by  the  use  of  a  strap  fastened  to 
a  joist  overhead,  so  that  the  animal 
cannot  get  its  head  quite  down  to 
the  floor.  This  device  is  necessary  in  some  cases,  and  is 
effective. 


IN   THE   STABLE   AND    AT   WORK.  47 

There  is  a  great  difference  in  methods  of  managing  horses 
to  get  from  them  the  best  and  longest  service.  Some  men 
invariably  drive  rapidly,  regardless  of  the  condition  of  roads; 
others  not  only  drive  with  consideration,  but  continually  guide 
the  team  so  that  the  wagon  will  avoid  all  stones  and  heavy 
ruts,  making  it  a  constant  endeavor  to  husband  the  resources 
of  the  horses.  Rapid,  careless,  and  often  inhuman  driving 
will  wear  out  the  best  pair  of  horses  in  one-half  the  time 
they  will  serve  efficiently  and  profitably  in  the  hands  of  a 
rational  man. 

Don't  be  deceived  into  believing  that  because  you  own  a 
horse  you  may  treat  him  as  you  choose,  no  matter  how  cruelly. 
To  such  a  statement  every  impulse  of  merciful  humanity  rises 
in  opposition.  Every  State  Humane  Society  remonstrates, 
and  has  the  arm  of  strong  law  on  its  side.  The  penalties 
for  abuse  are  heavy.  And  it  is  right. 

Better  go  twice  than  to  overload  the  team.  This  over- 
loading is  a  most  frightful  cause  of  unsoundness.  When 
loaded,  stop  often.  It  pays. 


There  are  lots  of  fools  who  drive  horses,  and  one  of  the 
biggest  is  the  one  who  makes  the  horse  trot  down  hill.  It 
hurts  the  horse,  as  it  jars  the  shoulders,  and  may  bring 
paralysis  of  the  muscles  and  nerves  and  to  cause  sweeny,  or 
shoulder  soreness.  It  also  weakens  the  tendons  and 


48  IN   THE   STABLE   AND   AT   WORK. 

•*'  springs"  the  knees,  and  then  the  animal  cannot  stand 
^rect  on  its  fore  feet  or  hold  back  down  hill.  There  is 
always  more  danger  in  going  fast  down  hill  if  anything  gives 
away.  A  horse  should  always  be  taught  to  go  carefully 
-down  hill,  and  not  pellmell. 

Make  haste  slowly  for  the  first  mile  or  two  when  starting 
•out  for  a  drive.  Try  it,  and  see  how  much  easier  and  more 
satisfactorily  your  horse  will  accomplish  whatever  is  re- 
quired of  him. 

Do  the  horses  seem  to  sweat  easily  at  their  work  in  the 
spring  ?  They  are  not  hard  yet.  Be  easy  with  them  for  a 
few  days.  As  Pat  says:  "Be  aisy;  and  if  ye  can't  be 
.aisy,  be  as  aisy  as  ye  can. " 

Don't  let  the  colts  and  young  horses  get  discouraged  with 
heavy  loads.  Better  go  a  few  more  times,  or  hire  in  a  day's 
worjv,  than  to  spoil  a  promising  team. 

When  your  horse  is  heated  from  riding  or  driving  do  not 
let  him  stand  in  a  draught,  and,  if  very  wrarm,  rub  him  briskly 
all  over  with  a  coarse  towel  or  wisp  of  straw  and  cover  him 
with  a  light  blanket,  which  will  absorb  the  perspiration  and 
prevent  a  chilling  of  the  surface. 

Never  whip  a  horse  when  he  is  frightened.  Be  cool  your- 
self and  he  will  soon  gain  confidence. 

The  nippy  air  of  wi/iter  makes  the  horses  frisky.  After 
the  confinement  of  the  stable  they  want  to  go.  If  a  rein 
should  break-  their  going  might  be  serious.  Perhaps  the 
sewing  of  some  of  the  splices  has  begun  to  give  way.  Bet- 
ter see  about  it. 

Bring  the  horse  up  to  the  hitching  post  with  his  head  from 
the  wind.  He  will  not  get  so  cold  as  if  his  head  is  toward 
the  wind,  and  he  will  stand  better.  The  horse  will  stand 
more  quietly  while  you  are  hitching  him  if  his  head  is  from 
the  wind. 


HORSE  MAXIMS. 


TIM  s^ys: 

The  nervous  horse  should  have  less  oats  and  more  bran. 

The  collar  must  not  be  too  wide  nor  too  short. 

It  does  a  horse  a  wonderful  amount  of  good  to  rub  its  legs 

a  few  minutes  after  a  hard  drive,  with  a  woolen  cloth. 

Give  the  horses  a  few  potatoes  in  their  feed  occasionally. 
They  are  good  for  horses  and  bad  for  worms. 

The  blanket  is  for  outside  the  stable,  not  in  it.  If  the 
Jiorse  in  the  stable  is  so  cold  as  to  need 
a  blanket,  he  should  be  given  a  better 
stable,  and  not  a  blanket.  When  a 
horse  has  free  access  to  salt  it  seldom 
has  colic  and  very  rarely  is  troubled 
with  bots. 

Cultivate  a  cheery  way  of  speak- 
ing to  your  horse.  Some  horses  that  are  cross  and  lazy,  be- 
cause growled  at  and  punched  in  the  ribs  untif  sottr  and 
discouraged,  will  prick  forward  their  ears  and  follow  them 
in  a  hearty,  glad  manner  that  is  stirprising  when  they  are 
kindly  and  encouragingly  tirged. 

If  a  horse  eats  his  bedding  use  sawdust  or  fine  tan  bark. 

Don  t  draw  your  hamcs  too  close  at  the  top  ;  better  have 
them  wide  so  as  not  to  pinch  the  horse 's  neck. 


CHAPTER   IV. 

WHIMS    AND    VICES. 

Managing  the  Balky  Horse — Tail-rubbing — Kicking — The 
Puller — Pawing — Rolling  in  the  Stable  —  Tearing  the 
Blanket. 

For  a  balky  horse  the  only  persuaders  that  should  be 
allowed  are  the  spade  and  post.  They  should  be  carried  in 
the  wagon  and  the  spade  made  to  set  the  post  at  the  horse's 
head  wherever  he  makes  his  first  stand.  Here  he  should  be 
firmly  tied  without  unharnessing  and  left  until  thoroughly 
tired  of  standing.  If  he  will  not  go  on  then  without  the 
whip  he  should  be  left  several  hours  more,  always  without 
food  or  drink  until  he  finds  he  is  punishing  himself,  which 
almost  any  horse  of  intelligence  will  conclude  after  standing 
from  thirty  to  thirty-six  hours.  When  the  poor  beast  does 
start  amiably,  he  should  be  praised  and  petted  without  stint. 
After  a  horse  has  reached  twelve  years  of  age,  and  perhaps 
balked  and  been  abused  for  it  most  of  this  time,  it  may  be 
doubtful  if  he  can  be  reformed. 

Some  teamsters  start  a  balky  horse  by  taking  him  from 
the  wagon  and  making  him  turn  around  in  a  short  circle  until 
giddy.  If  he  doesn't  go  after  the  first  dance  of  this  sort  re- 
peat the  process. 

)To  cure  a  horse  of  rubbing  his  tail,  wash  the  dock  with 
warm  water  and  good  yellow  soap  (not  soft  soap),  and  thor- 


WHIMS    AND    VICES.  51 

oughly  well  dry  the  part  with  a  clean  coarse  rubber;  the 
rubbing  to  be  kept  up  until  the  part  is  not  only  dry,  but  well 
warm  with  the  friction.  Also  inject  a  little  sweet  oil  into 
the  rectum.  Then  apply  a  liniment  made  of  new  milk  and 
spirits  of  turpentine,  in  the  proportion  of  an  ounce  of  the  lat- 
ter to  eight  ounces  of  the  former. 

If  the  horse  kicks  the  sides  of  the  stall  he  can  probably  be 
broken  of  the  habit  by  hanging  a  smooth  stick  of  wood  from 
the  joist  above  by  a  rope,  so  that  when  he  indulges  his  vice, 
his  feet  or  legs  will  strike  the  stick.  This  will  put  it  in  mo- 
tion ;  it  will  swing  back  and  forth  and  take  his  attention  so 
he  will  forget  about  kicking.  This  is  a  pretty  sure  cure. 

There  is  no  escape  for  the  puller  tied  in  the  following 
manner,  and  the  tie  will  in  time  break  the  bad  habit :  Make 
a  slip-noose  of  a  strong  manilla  rope  and  place  it  around  the 
animal  just  forward  of  the  hind  legs,  having  the  noose  onv 
the  under  side.  Then  pass  the  rope  between  the  body  and 
girt,  next  between  the  forward  legs  and  through  the  halter 
ring  and  post  and  tie  to  the  girt.  After  the  puller  has  set 
back  on  this  novel  tie  once  or  twice  he  will  find  he  is  only 
squeezing  himself  unpleasantly  and  that  without  breaking  a 
halter  or  doing  any  damage. 

If  the  horse  paws  in  the  stable,  turn  it  out  every  day  for  a 
run  in  a  yard.  When  driven  every  day  it  will  not  paw,  un- 
less fed  irregularly. 

If  you  cannot  stop  your  horse  bolting  his  food  by  putting 
a  handful  of  shelled  corn  in  his  manger,  give  him  cut  hay 
with  ground  feed.  He  will  masticate  that. 

To  prevent  a  horse  from  rolling  in  the  stable :  Fasten  a 
strap  to  the  ceiling  above  his  shoulders,  letting  the  lower  end 
hang  about  two  and  one-half  feet  from  the  ground.  Fasten 
a  ring  to  the  top  of  the  halter,  put  a  snap  on  the  end  of  the 
strap,  and  snap  into  the  ring.  Simple  but  safe. 


WHIMS   AND    VICES. 


To  prevent  a  horse  from  tearing  the  blanket  with  his  teeth, 
a  leather  shield,  as  shown  in  the  picture,  is  sewed  to  the  halter 
which  does  not  interfere  with  the  animal  eating,  but  does  with 
its  habit  of  tearing  its  blanket. 
The  shield  should  extend  four 
inches  below  the  nose. 

The  habit  of  shying  may  come 
from  timidity  or  defective  eye- 
sight. If  the  latter,  it  cannot 
be  entirely  cured ;  if  the  former, 
gentleness  and  good  sense  in 
the  driver  will  in  a  great  meas- 
ure overcome  the  difficulty. 
Never  whip  a  shying  horse  past  the  object  which  frightens  it. 
This  only  confirms  the  habit.  Go  slow  ;  let  the  horse  h.ive 
time  to  see  the  object  and  learn  that  it  will  not  hurt  him. 

A  very  bad  habit  in  a  horse  is  that  of  sudden  starting 
when  harnessed,  and  often  leads  to  broken  traces,  swingle- 
trees,  and  to  runaways  and  smashups.  The  fault  is  usually 
taught  the  horse  by  a  fool  driver  who  cuts  him  with  the  whip 
unexpectedly.  A  vice  of  this  kind,  in  a  horse  that  is  afraid 
of  the  whip,  is  rarely  cured,  but  may  be  mitigated  by  gen- 
tleness. 

Running  away  is  the  worst  of  vices.  Carelessness  is  the 
mother  of  the  runaway  horse.  When  the  fault  is  once 
established  it  is  difficult  of  cure.  All  runaways,  or  horses 
hard  to  hold,  should  be  only  used  with  a  safety  bit,  one  that 
will  be  severe  enough  to  make  it  painful  to  attempt  to  run. 
Cy  the  careful  use  of  such  a  bit  some  horses  may  be  grad- 
ually cured  c"  the  habit  of  running  away. 


CHAPTER  V. 

HARNESS  HINTS. 

Halters — The  Collar — Blinders — In  Fly-time — Triple  Reins- 
— Leading  a  Broncho — A  Harness  Closet — What  Harriet 
Says. 

HALTERS  AND  HARNESS. 

Many  a  horse  is  lost  or  seriously  damaged  by  halters  that 

are  unsafe,  because  weak  or  improperly  constructed.  Pullers 
are  the  result  of  breaking  away.  A  horse 
that  is  tied  with  a  halter  made  like  No.  I 
will  rarely  continue  to  pull.  It  is  like  the 
ordinary  halter,  excepting  that  the  chin  strap 
is  double,  and  the  ring  is  placed  on  but  half 
of  it.  The  instant  the  horse  attempts  to  pull 
NO.  I.  he  finds  his  nose  suddenly  compressed  and 

his  breath  shut  off. 

The  unpleasant  sensation  ceases  at  once  when  he  stands 

up  to  the  post  and  behaves  himself.      This  is  an  effective 

halter  to  place  on  halter-pullers.     No.  2  is 

made  of  a  single  piece  of  rope,  can  be 

constructed  in  five  minutes  at  a  cost  of  five 

cents,  and  is  extremely  handy  where  one 

suddenly  desires  a  number  of  halters  for 

sending  away  horses  that  have  been  sold. 

It  is  not  a  safe  night  halter,  as  it  is  liable  to 

be  rubbed  off.     By  attaching  a  throat  strap 

to  it,  however,   it  may  be   made  to   serve   satisfactorily  for 

some  months. 


54 


HARNESS    HINTS. 


A  safe  and  neat  tie  is  a  good  strap  or  rope,  with  a  snap  on 
one  end.  Tie  the  strap  to  the  post,  pass  the  snap  through 
the  bit,  over  the  horse's  neck,  and  snap  into  the  same  bit- 
ring.  Any  attempt  to  get  away  draws  the  bit  towards  the 
-crest  of  the  neck  uncomfortably. 

The  good  road  halter  is  the  simple  one  drawn. 
The  muzzle  piece  is  a  slip-noose,  and  the  only 
other  strap  goes  over  the  head  back  of  the  bridle, 
so  it  cannot  be  worked  off.  Throughout  it  is 
made  of  inch  and  a  half  heavy  leather,  and  pull- 
ing only  compresses  the  horse's  mouth.  It  is 
quickly  and  easily  put  on,  even  with  numb  hands, 
and  is  tasteful  for  ladies'  use.  Don't  tolerate  a  road  halter 
with  a  short  tie  strap. 

Keep  the  collar  clean.  Oil  it  once  a  month,  the  rest  of 
the  harness  twice  a  year.  Clean  the  leather  before  you 
apply  the  dressing — twice  as  much  neat's-foot  oil  as  beef 
tallow,  with  a  dash  of  castor  oil,  no  lampblack.  Oil  to  the 
harness  increases  the  wear  of  both  it  and  the  horse. 

A  good  plan  of  haltering  horses 
is  shown  he$£.  Put  a  staple  on  the 
outside  of  the  manger,  put  the  halter 
strap  through  this,  and  tie  the  end 
of  the  halter  to  a  block  of  wood 
below  the  staple.  This  will  always 
keep  the  slack  taut. 

Take  the  horse  to  the  harness 
shop,  and  do  not  buy  a  collar  that 
does  not  fit.  A  slight  misfit  may 
be  overcome  by  making  a  cut  where 
it  will  be  covered  by  the  hame  and 
removing  some  of  the  padding.  The  collar  will  not  be 
injured. 


HARNESS    HINTS.  55 

An  unnecessarily  cruel  thing  about  a  harness  is  a  tight 
throat  strap.  Don't  leave  it  so  loose  that  the  bridle  can  be 
rubbed  off  during  fly-time,  but  see  that  it  does  not  press  the 
throat  when  the  head  is  up,  thus  cutting  off  the  breath,  stop- 
ping the  blood  and  causing  a  swelling  of  the  throat  glands. 

It  is  cruel  to  make  a  horse  work  in  a  hard,  ill-fitting 
collar.  How  do  you  like  a  shoe  that  causes  blisters,  corns 
and  bunions  on  your  feet  ? 

In  the  name  of  all  that  is  humane,  dispense  with  the  old 
Happing  blinders  that  have  long  ago  lost  shape  and  straps  to 
keep  them  in  place.  They  endanger  the  sight  and  are  a 
source  of  discomfort  to  the  poor  beast  obliged  to  submit  to 
such  cruelty.  Take  your  jackknife  and  cut  them  off. 

The  only  horse  that  should  have  the  overdraw  check  rein 
is  the  one  that  is  hard-mouthed  and  pulls  on  the  lines,  or  the 
one  that  continually  jerks  on  the  lines  to  loosen  them. 
Such  horses  are  greatly  improved  by  this  rein. 

Take  the  fasteners  from  an  old  overshoe  and  sew  or  rivet 
a  five-inch  strip  of  leather  to  the  same,  and  use  for  horse- 
tail tie. 

In  fly-time,  put  a  big  crupper  pad  under  the  tail  of  the 
horse,  big  enough  to  raise  it  up  so  the  animal  cannot  hug  it 
when  it  switches  over  the  reins.  This  is  a  simple  contrivance 
and  a  safe  one.  Put  buckles  on  this  big  pad  and  buckle  it 
under  the  back  strap,  the  same  as 
the  regular  one.  When  under 
the  tail,  the  horse  cannot-  hold 
the  rein. 

Here  is  shown  the  way  that 
shy  bronchos  are  led  behind  a 
wagon  in  the  far  West.  Take  a 
half-inch  rope,  lay  the  two  ends 
together  and  tie  a  knot  about  five  feet  from  the  other  end 


HARNESS    HINTS. 


where  you  see  A.  Now  lay  it  on  so  that  the  knot  is  in 
the  center  of  the  horse's  back  and  his  tail  over  the  rope, 
put  the  ends  through  the  halter  ring  at  C,  one  rope  being  on 
each  side  of  the  neck,  and  tie  the  ends  together  to  the  wagon. 
You  may  be  sure  that  the  animal  will  lead  and  not  puli 
back  the  wagon.  Horses  if  tied  in  this  way  in  narrow  stalls 
can  be  cured  of  halter-pulling. 

Triple  reins  are  easily  made 
and  are  sometimes  needed  on  the 
farm.  Have  the  harness  maker 
make  the  extra  check  lines  the 
right  length  ;  and  then  put  them 
on  the  buckle  of  the  lines  in  use 
and  you  have  them  in  good 
shape.  The  ring  and  snap  should 
be  used  on  all  the  lines.  In 
driving  four  horses  abreast  use 
the  usual  checks  on  each  team,  and  put  a  short  "jocky 
strap  "  on  the  inside  horses,  from  bit  to  bit. 


A  HARNESS  CLOSET. 

3h 

Few  things  have  a  greater  tendency  to  preserve  harnesses 
than  neatness  and  order,  whose  prime  essentials  are  careful 
cleaning  and  careful  hanging. 
No   good    horseman    throws 
his  harnesses  on  the  floor  or 
carelessly  over  a  hook  in  the 
open  barn  or  stable.     A  tight 
closet,    where    all    the    har- 
nesses, saddles,  sponges,  oils, 

wrenches,  and  other  stable  requisites  may  be  kept  away  from 
ammonia,  dust  and  light,  is  a  great  economy.  Its  first  cost 
does  not  need  to  be  great  if  one  possesses  an  old  door.  A 


.00 

DO 

HARNESS    HINTS.  57 

few  feet  of  matched  lumber  will  quickly  take  the  shape  of 
the  closet  shown,  in  almost  any  part  of  the  barn,  if  the 
manipulator  has  a  little  ingenuity.  If  the  lumber  is  old  it 
should  be  liberally  puttied  and  painted.  The  habit  of  put- 
ting in  this  closet  everything  which  will  make  the  barn  look 
untidy  will  soon  give  the  owner  a  reputation  for  neatness,  as 
well  as  lightening  the  drain  upon  his  pocketbook  for  things 
lost  or  spoiled. 

HARRIET  BIGGLK  says: 

Hang  z//  the  halters  where  they  can  be  found  in  the  dark 
on  returning  from  a  drive. 

Knots  in  the  traces  look  bad  for  the  man  who  ties  them, 

Keep  the  harness  strong  in  every  part  or  there  may  be  a 
break  away  from  home,  a  runaway,  and  somebody  hurt  or 
possibly  killed. 

Don  t  try  to  Jit  a  horse  to  the  collar.  It  won* t  work.  Fit 
the  collar  to  the  horse. 

In  oiling  harnesses  which  have  been  neglected,  a  better 
supply  can  be  put  on  more  quickly,  reaching  to  every  rusty 
buckle,  tongue  and  crevice,  with  a  small  pointed  brush,  than, 
with  any  other  appliance. 

Be  sztre  the  blinders  do  not  rub  the  eyes  of  the  horse. 

Cover  the  bits  with  smooth  leather  for  winter  use. 

Spring  devices  attached  to  the  whiffletrees  are  very  bene- 
ficial, especially  in  plowing  stony  ground.  In  their  use  the- 
jarring  is  overcome.  Use  them  on  all  heavy  wagons  also^ 
The  horses  appreciate  them. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

AILMENTS    AND    REMEDIES. 

Most  Ailments  Come  from  Improper  Feeding  and  Watering 
— Importance  of  Having  a  Good  Teamster — Worms — 
Indigestion — Colic — Sore  Shoulders — Choking  Distemper 
— H  eaves — Dysentery. 

With  food  don  t  stuff  me,  yet  stint  me  not ; 
Give  me  water  to  drink  when  I  am  not  too  hot  ; 
Then  come  what  may,  P II  fail  you  not. 

The  majority  of  horse  ailments  may  be  traced,  directly  or 
indirectly,  to  improper  feeding  and  watering,  careless  man- 
agement in  the  stable  and  in  harness. 

A  careless  driver  is  a  very  frequent  cause  of  loss.  On  the 
-contrary,  a  driver  who  is  a  close  observer  of  the  team  in  his 
•charge,  noting  every  move  made  and  understanding  the  ani- 
mals' requirements  and  ability,  rarely  has  a  sick,  lame  or 
.galled  horse.  For  this  reason,  to  place  a  cheap  man  over  a 
good  pair  of  horses  is  the  height  of  folly.  The  man  getting 
one- third  more  wages,  who  is  a  good  teamster,  which  in- 
cludes the  terms  "  good  manager,"  "  close  observer,"  and 
•"  humane,"  will  much  more  than  earn  the  extra  money  paid 
liim  in  increase  of  work  performed,  decrease  of  grain,  med- 
icine and  repair  bills,  and  length  of  the  horses'  period  of 
usefulness.  There  is  no  reason  why  a  first- class  team,  six  to 
•eight  years  old,  should  not  serve  continuously  and  satisfac- 
torily for  a  term  of  twelve  to  sixteen  years,  if  properly  pro- 
tected, fed  and  looked  out  for. 


AILMENTS   AND    REMEDIES.  59 

If,  from  improper  care  or  feeding,  or  from  some  unavoid- 
able cause,  your  horse  is  out  of  condition,  you  should  dose 
him  with  little  medicine  and  much  common  sense. 

The  horse  that  allovvrs  himself  to  be  caught  lying  down 
may  be  considered  out  of  condition  or  lacking  sufficient  nu- 
tritious food.  A  quart  of  linseed  meal  divided  into  three 
feeds  and  added  to  his  grain  daily  will  do  him  much  good 
and  help  a  quick  shedding  of  the  coat. 

If  a  horse  cough,  dampen  his  hay,  wet  his  mixed  feed, 
keep  him  out  of  a  draught ;  after  exercise  blanket  him. 

Keep  hot  poultices  cf  bread  and  milk  or  oil  meal  on  the 
neck  of  horses  with  throat  Distemper ;  change  them  often. 
In  severe  cases  rub  the  glands  and  muscles  with  spirits  of 
turpentine  and  camphor. 

Look  out  for  Scratches.  Many  a  horse  is  ruined  by  allow- 
ing the  legs  to  go  dirty.  It  takes  only  a  few  minutes  to  wash 
them  clean  and  rub  them  dry.  If  the  skin  begins  to  crack 
it  must  not  be  left  or  it  will  become  almost  incurable.  The 
skin  must  be  kept  clean  and  soft.  Cut  the  hair  off  short  and 
paint  it  over  with  chloride  of  zinc  and  water — thirty  grains 
to  one  pint  of  water.  Put  this  on  once  a  day  and  rub  with 
glycerine. 

Horses  having  greedy  appetites,  rough  coats  and  poor 
condition  may  be  suspected  of  IVornis.  Such  animals  often 
pass  long,  round  worms.  Copperas  or  tobacco  will  clear  the 
worms  out  of  the  stomach  of  a  horse.  A  tablespoonful  of 
copperas  for  two  days  and  then  stop  for  two.  A  handful  of 
tobacco  dried  and  made  into  powder  and  mixed  with  the 
grain.  Give  this  for  three  days  and  then  hold  on  for  a  few 
days.  For  worms  in  the  rectum  a  syringe  must  be  used. 
Salt  and  water  is  good ;  carbolic  acid  diluted  fifty  times  in 
water,  or,  what  is  better,  thymo-cresol.  This  would  un- 
doubtedly be  a  good  internal  remedy  for  worms,  diluted  one 


60  AILMENTS   AND   REMEDIES. 

to  fifty  parts  of  water.  A  tablespoonful  of  the  thymo- 
cresol  diluted  with  a  quart  of  water  would  make  a  good 
dose  as  a  worm  exterminator. 

Some  horses,  although  having  a  good  appetite,  remain 
gaunt  and  thin  from  Indigestion.  They  should  be  given 
some  strong  purgative,  like  Barbadoes  aloes,  combined  with 
powdered  ginger,  one-half  ounce  ;  Glauber's  salts,  one-half 
pound,  dissolved  in  a  quart  of  water.  When  the  intestines 
have  been  thoroughly  cleaned  by  this  process,  give  daily  the 
following  powder :  Sulphate  of  iron,  three  drachms  ;  sul- 
phate of  soda,  two  ounces  ;  nux  vomica,  ten  grains  ;  ginger, 
one-half  ounce.  This  powder  may  be  continued  daily  for  a 
month.  Give  all  the  rock  salt  the  animal  will  lick. 

Spasmodic  Colic  begins  suddenly.  The  horse  stamps  im- 
patiently, looks  backward,  soon  paws,  and  then  rolls.  After 
an  interval  of  ease  the  pains  return  with  increased  severity. 
Give  chloral  hydrate,  one  ounce,  in  half  a  pint  of  water  as 
a  drench  ;  or  ether  and  laudanum,  two  ounces  each,  in  lin- 
seed oil,  half  a  pint ;  or  sulphuric  ether  and  alcohol,  two 
ounces  of  each  in  eight  ounces  of  water.  If  nothing  else  is 
handy,  give  of  whisky  half  a  pint  in  hot  water.  If  not  re- 
lieved in  one  hour  repeat  any  of  the  doses  prescribed.  The 
body  should  be  warmly  clothed  and  sweating  encouraged. 
Dip  blankets  in  hot  water  containing  a  small  quantity  of  tur- 
pentine and  hold  them  in  place  under  the  body  with  dry 
blankets,  or  rub  the  abdomen  with  stimulants  or  mustard 
water.  If  cramp  is  due  to  irritation  in  the  bowels,  a  cure  is 
not  complete  until  a  physic  of  aloes,  one  ounce,  or  linseed 
oil,  one  pint,  is  given.  Soapy  or  salt  water  aid  the  cure 
when  used  as  an  injection. 

Wind  Colic  is  caused  by  feeding  after  long  fasting,  or 
when  the  animal  is  exhausted  by  driving,  or  by  new  grain  or 
hay,  too  much  grain  fed,  or  by  sour  or  indigestible  food. 


AILMENTS   AND   REMEDIES.  6 1 

The  horse  seems  dull,  paws,  and  the  pains  are  continuous. 
The  belly  enlarges,  and  when  struck  in  front  of  the  haunches 
sounds  like  a  drum.  If  not  soon  relieved,  difficult  breath- 
ing, sweating,  staggering  and  death  follow.  Give  alkalines 
to  neutralize  the  gases  formed.  No  simple  remedy  is  better 
than  common  baking  soda,  two  to  four  ounces.  If  this 
fails,  give  chloride  of  lime  in  half-ounce  doses,  or  the  same 
quantity  of  carbonate  of  ammonia  dissolved  and  diluted  with 
oil  or  milk  until  relieved.  Chloral  hydrate  is  particularly 
useful  in  both  wind  and  spasmodic  colic.  Horsemen  would 
be  wise  to  keep  it  ready  for  emergencies.  Physic  should  be 
given  in  flatulent  colic,  and  turpentine,  one  to  two  ounces, 
with  linseed  oil,  eight  ounces,  frequently,  to  stimulate  the 
motion  of  the  bowels.  Colic  should  not  be  neglected  nor 
the  patient  left  until  certain  of  cure  or  death. 

For  Sore  Shoulders  in  horses,  the  best  thing  is  to  have 
properly  fitting  collars.  If  the  surface  galls  under  the  collar 
wash  with  salt  and  water  at  night  and  with  clear  water  in  the 
morningj  and  protect  the  spot  with  a  pad  under  the  collar. 
If  the  skin  breaks  use  a  lotion  of  one  drachm  of  carbolic  acid 
to  one  quart  of  water  twice  a  day,  and  relieve  the  horse  from 
work  for  a  day  or  two.  It  is  cruel  to  work  a  horse  with  a 
raw  sore  shoulder. 

Choking  Distemper  prevails  at  times  in  many  parts  of  the 
country.  It  is  sometimes  called  spinal  meningitis  or  putrid 
sore  throat.  The  animal  often  falls  down  paralyzed,  cannot 
arise,  and  if  left  prostrate  is  almost  sure  to  die.  He  must  be 
got  upon  his  feet,  and  if  he  cannot  stand  must  be  swung.  A 
majority  of  cases  are  fatal.  It  is  caused  by  some  specific 
poison  taken  into  the  system  with  food  or  drink,  mostly  the 
former.  Dirty  mangers,  rotting  roots  or  meal,  and  mouldy 
hay,  especially  meadow  hay,  are  usually  the  medium  by 
which  the  disease  is  acquired.  The  moral  is  to  have  every- 


62  AILMENTS   AND    REMEDIES. 

thing  sweet  and  clean  that  the  animal  eats  and  drinks,  and 
have  no  decayed  matter  in  the  entry  or  in  any  other  part  of 
the  barn. 

The  peculiar  movement  of  the  abdomen  and  flank,  point 
to  Heaves,  and  a  cough  usually  accompanies  it.  There  is  no 
cure  for  the  established  disease.  Careful  dieting  will  relieve 
the  distress,  but  this  will  appear  as  bad  as  ever  when  the 
stomach  is  overloaded.  The  best  quality  of  food  lessens 
"heaves."  Food  that  is  too  bulky  and  lacks  nutriment, 
has  much  to  do  with  the  disease.  Feed  affected  animals 
only  a  small  quantity  of  hay  once  a  day,  and  invariably  water 
at  least  fifteen  minutes  before  feeding,  and  never  directly 
after  meal.  Work  right  after  eating  aggravates  the  symp- 
toms. Carrots,  potatoes  or  turnips,  chopped  or  mixed  with 
oats  or  corn  are  a  good  diet.  What  bulky  food  is  given 
should  be  in  the  evening.  Medical  treatment  is  worth  less 
than  dieting.  A  predisposition  to  the  disease  may  be  in- 
herited. 

If  Dysentery  exists,  place  the  horse  in  a  dry,  well -venti- 
lated stable,  rub  the  surface  of  the  body  frequently,  and  keep 
it  and  the  legs  warm  with  blankets  and  bandages.  The  food 
must  be  light  and  easy  to  digest,  the"  water  pure  and  in  small 
quantities.  Give  first,  castor  oil  one-half  pint  and  laudanum 
two  ounces.  The  strength  must  be  kept  up  by  milk 
punches,  eggs,  beef  tea,  oatmeal  gruel,  etc. 


A    (iOOD    PULLER. 


CHAPTER   VII. 

AILMENTS   AND   REMEDIES — CONTINUED. 

Glanders — Gorged  Stomach  —  Lockjaw^ — Choking — Hooks 
— Lice — Knuckling —  Ring  Bo*>e — Spavin  —  Scratches — 
Itching  Skin — Overdriven  Pace. 

When  cooled  and  rested, 

Give  me  water  and  feed ; 
And  P II  willingly  serve  you 
In  time  of  need. 

Whenever  a  horse  is  seen  to  bleed  or  emit  offensive  mat- 
ter from  the  nostrils,  Glanders  is  suspected  and  treatment 
should  not  be  attempted.  It  may  be  a  dangerous  case,, 
which  is  fatal  alike  to  man  and  beast.  A  veterinary  sur- 
geon should  be  called. 

Gorged  Stomach  results  when  a  horse  has  been  fed  after  a 
long  fast.  The  small  stomach  of  a  horse  is  so  distended 
that  it  is  unable  to  contract  itself  upon  its  contents,  a  mo- 
tion which  is  necessary  in  digestion.  The  horse  becomes 
stupid,  slight  colicky  symptoms  are  observed,  and  he  carries- 
his  head  low  and  extended.  As  he  grows  worse  he  pawsr 
becomes  delirious,  is  covered  with  cold  sweat,  trembles,, 
slobbers,  staggers  and  drops  dead.  Treatment  is  difficult, 
A  purgative  of  Barbadoes  aloes,  one  ounce,  should  be  given 
at  once,  followed  by  Cayenne  pepper,  one-half  ounce,  or 
Jamaica  ginger,  one-half  ounce.  If  the  bowels  can  be  stim- 
ulated to  act,  they  will  in  a  measure  relieve  the  stomach. 
For  this  purpose  use  turpentine,  two  ounces,  and  linseed  oil, 
eight  ounces. 


64  AILMENTS   AND   REMEDIES — CONTINUED. 

Horses  liable  to  Staggers  and  Fits  should  have  harnesses 
that  are  carefully  adjusted,  and  should  not  be  pushed  in  hot 
weather.  No  heavy  feed  should  be  given  them  at  any  time, 
oats  and  sweet  hay  or  grass  being  the  best.  Such  animals 
should  not  be  driven  when  it  can  be  avoided.  When  indi- 
cations point  to  an  attack,  the  horse  should  be  stopped,  his 
harness  loosened,  some  cold  water  given  him  to  drink  and 
his  face  sponged  at  the  same  time.  Rye  is  a  bad  feed  for 
sleepy  staggers. 

Lockjaw  is  caused  by  cuts,  nail  in  the  hoof,  etc.  Nothing  is 
so  common  from  wounds  in  the  feet  and  from  docking.  The 
horse  is  unable  to  open  his  jaws  to  the  fullest  extent,  and 
mastication  is  impossible.  Various  muscles  twitch,  the  head 
and  tail  are  elevated  and  the  nose  protruded,  and  the  anus  is 
•compressed.  The  animal  swallows  with  difficulty ;  saliva 
flows  from  the  mouth.  Of  course,  in  this  disease  the  ne- 
cessity of  calling  in  a  skilled  veterinary  surgeon  is  indi- 
cated. 

A  horse  which  is  frequently  or  occasionally  overtaken  with 
Giddiness  or  Megrims  is  dangerous  to  use.  This  trouble  is 
hard  to  cure.  It  indicates  the  need  of  moderate  driving,  es- 
pecially in  hot  weather,  and  that  a  small  amount  of  hay 
should  be  fed. 

Horses  that  are  Choked  thrust  out  their  heads,  bend  and 
stretch  the  neck,  while  there  is  a  copious  flow  of  saliva  from 
the  mouth.  In  some  cases  there  is  distention  of  the  gullet 
on  the  left  side  of  the  neck,  if  it  have  descended  so  far.  If 
it  be  in  the  upper  part  of  the  gullet  a  man  accustomed  to 
giving  balls  may  be  able  to  reach  it  with  his  hand.  Obstruc- 
tions that  have  got  lower  down  may  be  moved  upward  gently 
from  the  outside.  Sometimes  an  obstruction  is  soft  and  may 
be  crushed  small  enough  for  the  animal  to  swallow  it.  A 
mass  of  meal  or  other  impacted  food  is  sometimes  removed 


AILMENTS   AND   REMEDIES— CONTINUED.  65 

by  frequent  drinks  of  water,  and  a  drench  of  olive  or  cotton 
seed  oil  can  do  no  harm.  The  plan  of  reaching  a  whip  or 
heavy  piece  of  rope  down  the  gullet  to  push  the  substance 
into  the  stomach  is  risky,  in  the  hands  of  one  not  accustomed 
to  the  anatomy  of  the  horse. 

Lampas  is  usually  an  imaginary  trouble.  Very  rarely  does 
the  membrane  directly  beneath  the  upper  front  teeth  congest 
and  swell  enough  to  interfere  with  feeding.  When  this 
trouble  is  feared  there  is  no  quicker  nor  surer  cure  than  feed- 
ing a  little  corn  in  the  ear.  When  biting  off  the  kernels, 
the  horse  naturally  compresses  the  membrane  or  forces  it 
back.  The  burning  of  the  lampas  is  cruel  and  unnecessary, 
and  if  the  swelled  parts  are  cut,  the  cut  should  not  be  deep, 
or  danger  will  result. 

There  is  a  widespread  delusion  that  Hooks ,  so  called, is  a  dis- 
ease affecting  the  horse's  eye.  A  barbarous  custom  among  cruel 
men  is  to  forcibly  destroy  the  membrane  which  keeps  the  eye 
free  from  foreign  substances,  but  the  cruelty  does  not  accom- 
plish the  desired  result,  though  it  may  injure  or  destroy  the 
eye.  The  obstinacy  of  the  membrane  simply  shows  some- 
thing to  be  wrong  in  the  anatomy  of  the  horse,  just  as  the 
tongue  will  indicate  to  the  observing  physician  when  the 
stomach  of  his  subject  is  out  of  order.  To  cut  or  disturb 
the  hooks  in  the  eyes  is  as  absurd  as  to  doctor  the  tongue 
instead  of  the  stomach  in  the  human  case. 

Remove  Lice  by  rubbing  the  animal  with  a  solution  of 
sulphate  of  potassium',  four  ounces,  and  water,  one  gallon,  or 
with  strong  tar  water  ;  or  dust  with  Persian  insect  powder  ; 
or  the  skin  may  be  sponged  with  benzine  or  quassia  chip  tea. 
Any  of  the  applications  must  be  repeated  a  week  later  to 
destroy  the  lice  hatching  in  the  interval.  All  blankets  should 
be  boiled,  and  the  stalls  painted  with  turpentine,  and 
littered  with  fresh  pine  sawdust. 


66  AILMENTS    AND    REMEDIES CONTINTED. 

Knuckling,  or  cocked  ankle,  is  a  condition  of  the  fetlock 
joint  which  resembles  partial  dislocation.  The  trouble  is  not 
considered  unsoundness,  but  it  predisposes  to  stumbling. 
.Foals  are  quite  subject  to  it,  and  no  treatment  is  necessary, 
as  the  legs  straighten  up  naturally  in  a  few  weeks.  It  is 
caused  in  horses  by  heavy  and  fast  work,  and  is  produced 
sometimes  by  a  disease  of  the  suspensory  ligament,  or  of 
the  flexor  tendons.  This  should  be  relieved  by  proper  shoe- 
ing. The  toe  must  be  shortened  and  the  heels  left  high,  or 
the  shoe  should  be  thin  forward  with  thick  heels  or  high 
calks. 

A  Splint  may  be  rubbed  off  and  the  wrork  aided  by  putting 
on  a  liniment,  but  few  would  persevere  in  the  rubbing  long 
enough  to  make  a  cure.  A  blister  will  do  it. 

If  the  Fetlock  be  Sprained,  and  the  injury  slight,  bandage 
and  apply  cold  wrater  frequently.  Where  the  lameness  is 
intense,  and  the  swelling  and  heat  great,  the  leg  should  be 
kept  in  a  constant  stream  of  cold  water.  When  the  inflam- 
mation has  been  subdued  the  joint  should  be  blistered. 

Ring  Bone  is  an  osseous  exudation  or  bony  deposit  at  the 
crown  of  the  hoof.  When  its  presence  is  first  detected  the 
place  should  be  severely  blistered  once  or  twice,  or  red 
iodide  of  mercury  applied.  If  this  fail,  firing  with  the  hot 
iron  in  the  hands  of  a  competent  surgeon  will  be  necessary. 

If  you  have  a  suspicion  of  a  Spavin  coming  on  your  horse, 
employ  a  good  veterinary  surgeon.  Heroic  treatment  is  the 
only  thing  in  such  cases.  Judicious  firing,  strong  blistering 
and  perfect  rest  for  at  least  six  weeks  or  two  months,  and 
good  nursing  will,  in  most  cases,  arrest  the  disease  and  cure 
lameness.  It  is  the  result  of  too  great  exposure  in  draught 
or  speed,  or  from  slipping  and  kindred  causes. 

Scratches  or  grease  is  frequently  proof  of  carelessness  in 
clearing  stables,  and  includes  poor  ventilation.  The  trouble 


AILMENTS   AND   REMEDIES CONTINUED.  67 

may  result  from  condition  of  the  blood,  from  unwhole- 
some fodder,  or  work  in  irritating  mud  or  dust,  especially  of 
a  limestone  character.  It  has  been  brought  on  by  using 
caustic  soap  on  the  legs,  clipping  the  heels  in  wintertime,  by 
debilitating  disease,  etc.  The  first  step  in  a  cure  is  to 
remove  the  cause,  and  if  there  is  much  local  heat,  administer 
a  laxative  like  a  pound  of  Glauber's  salts.  Highly-fed 
animals  should  have  their  rations  reduced,  or  replaced  by  bran 
mashes,  flaxseed,  fruits,  roots,  and  other  non -stimulating  food. 
Bitter  tonics  are  essential  also,  and  may  be  continued  six 
weeks  to  two  months.  If  the  skin  is  unbroken,  bathe  with 
water,  one  quart,  in  which  sugar  of  lead,  two  drachms,  is  dis- 
solved, or  annoint  with  vaseline,  one  ounce,  sugar  of  lead, 
one  drachm,  and  carbolic  acid,  ten  drops.  To  clip  the  hair 
from  the  horse's  heels  and  poultice  them  with  grated  carrot, 
night  and  morning,  is  sometimes  beneficial.  Free  exercise 
is  important.  Rub  the  heels  dry  and  apply  equal  parts  of 
glycerine  and  compound  tincture  of  aloes. 

The  treatment  for  Wind  Galls  consists  in  pressure  by 
means  of  bandages  and  by  cold  lotions.  Blistering  will 
remove  them.  Capped  Hocks  are  reduced  in  the  same 
manner. 

There  is  no  treatment  that  will  surely  avail  in  the  cure  of 
String  Halt. 

For  Itching  Skill,  wash  the  skin  thoroughly  with  carbolic 
soapsuds,  and  give  the  horse  a  half  pound  of  Glauber's  salts 
daily  for  a  week.  Do  not  feed  him  any  grain  but  wheat, 
scalded  bran  and  linseed  meal,  three  quarts  of  the  former 
and  one  quart  of  the  latter,  for  two  weeks.  There  will 
speedily  come  a  change.  Card  him  daily.  Scald  his  oats 
and  give  him  salt  daily.  Feed  oats,  bran  and  linseed  after 
the  two  weeks  and  scald  the  whole  mess.  When  horses  are 
covered  v/ith  bunches  or  lumps,  their  blood  is  out  of  order. 


68  AILMENTS   AND    REMEDIES CONTINUED. 

Give  doses  of  Glauber's  salts  daily  and  hot  bran  mashes. 
Give  salts  a  half  pound  daily.  A  gill  of  raw  linseed  oil 
every  day  will  be  good,  mixed  with  the  bran. 

The  horse  which  eats  its  own  excrement  does  it  for  the 
acids  it  contains,  which  are  voided  in  it  and  in  the  urine 
which  it  has  absorbed.  Give  such  a  horse  a  pinch  of  cop- 
peras, bone  dust,  salt,  ashes  and  saltpetre  mixed  in  its  meal 
once  a  day.  A  few  days  of  pasturing  is  good. 

Horses  snort  and  wheeze  because  of  an  enlargement  of  the 
glands  in  the  nostrils.  A  skilled  veterinarian  can  remove 
the  trouble  by  cutting  it  out.  Doctoring  will  not  cure  snor- 
ing or  wheezing  horses.  The  air  passages  are  stopped. 

A  twenty-year-old  horse  was  not  doing  well.  Upon 
examination  his  front  teeth  were  found  to  be  so  long  that  his 
grinders  were  kept  from  coming  together,  and  he  could  not 
masticate  his  food.  His  teeth  were  filed  off,  and  the  sharp 
points  evened  with  a  float,  and  he  is  now  doing  as  well  as  any 
of  the  younger  horses.  Watch  the  teeth  of  the  old  horse. 

An  experienced  horseman,  if  human,  will  not  push  his 
horse  beyond  his  strength  by  Overriding or  Driving  ;  still  at 
times  an  indiscreet  driver  will  bring  an  animal  to  the  verge 
of  extinction,  when  it  is  well  to  know  what  to  do  for  him. 
The  symptoms  are  plain  in  the  audible  breathing,  staggering 
gait,  exhausted  appearance  and  heaving  flank.  The  girts 
must  be  removed  and  the  face  turned  toward  the  wind, 
the  animal  being  protected  from  the  sun  meantime. 
The  head  must  be  left  free  and  the  limbs  and  body  well 
rubbed.  The  movement  of  the  ribs  should  not  be  hindered 
in  any  way.  A  few  swallows  of  cold  water  may  be  allowed, 
and,  in  hot  weather,  the  mouth,  forehead  and  face  may  be 
sponged  with  it.  When  sufficiently  revived  the  horse  should 
be  slowly  led  to  a  comfortable  box-stall  and  heavily  blanketed, 
woolen  bandages  being  wound  about  the  legs  as  well.  Tf 


AILMENTS    AND    RKMKDIES CONTINUED. 


69 


the  horse  has  fallen  he  must  not  be  allowed  to  lie  until  he 
voluntarily  gets  up,  but  must  be  propped  up  on  his  breast  and 
not  allowed  to  lie  flat  on  his  side.  Heat  exhaustion  is  some- 
what similar  in  symptom  and  demands  similar  treatment, 
with  the  addition  of  throwing  cold  water  over  the  animal, 
particularly  wetting  the  head,  and  causing  a  current  of  air  to 
pass  over  him  that  evaporation  may  take  place. 


NEVER    SICK    A    DAY    IN    HIS    LIFE. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

DOCTOR  INC;. 

Giving  Medicine  —  Medicine  Ball  —  Injections — Physic  — 
Condition  Powders — Ending  a  Horse's  Life. 

Many  inexperienced  horsemen  know  nothing  of  how  to 
give  a  horse  medicine.  Some  who  can  administer  a  drench 
have  never  tried  balling.  Many  get  bitten  who  try,  so  it  is 
best  to  be  careful.  Hold  the  head  high,  reach  the  fingers  into 
the  animal's  mouth  just  back  of  the  forward  teeth  where  there 
are  no  teeth,  and  no  danger  of  being  bitten,  and  grasp  the 
tongue,  pull  it  out  gently,  and  as  you  do  so  the  horse  will 
open  his  mouth,  allowing  the  tongue  to  loll  between  the 
grinders.  The  medicine  ball  may  then  be  safely  pushed 
down  the  animal's  throat  as  far  as  the  hand  can  be  made  to 
reach,  for  the  animal  will  not  attempt  to  close  his  jaws  while 
his  tongue  is  between  them.  Two  persons,  one  to  administer 
the  medicine,  while  the  other  is  holding  the  tongue  and 
head,  will  accomplish  the  desired  object  more  quickly.  The 
throat  should  be  watched  carefully,  and  the  animal  not  be 
allowed  to  lower  his  head  until  he  is  seen  to  swallow.  The 
tongue  should  be  pushed  back  into  his  mouth  as  soon  as  the 
ball  is  put  well  down  the  throat,  as  it  will  assist  in  the  svval 
lowing  process.  Horse  balls  usually  come  wrapped  in 
tissue  paper,  and  should  not  be  unwrapped  before  adminis- 
tering, as  it  prevents  bad  taste  in  the  mouth. 

The  giving  of  a  drench  is  so  easy  and  common  as  not  to 
need  description.     The  medicine  should  be  shaken  well  with 


DOCTORING.  71 

half  a  pint  of  water,  and  poured  into  a  wide-mouthed  heavy 
glass  bottle  that  the  horse  cannot  easily  crush.  Having  se- 
cured the  head  and  tongue  as  described  in  *  *  administering  a 
ball,"  turn  up  the  bottle  in  the  horse's  mouth,  holding  the 
head  so  the  contents  will  run  down  his  throat.  Remove  the 
bottle  after  pouring  in  about  four  ounces.  If  he  does  not 
swallow  at  once,  gently  close  the  nostrils  for  a  moment,  or 
tickle  the  roof  of  his  mouth  with  the  finger  nail.  This  will 
cause  him  to  move  the  tongue  and  before  he  knows  it  he  will 
have  swallowed  the  mixture.  If  coughing  occur  or  the 
bottle  be  crushed,  lower  the  horse's  head  immediately. 

Injections  should  be  small  in  quantity  when  for  absorp- 
tion, and  at  a  temperature  of  90  to  loo  degrees.  They 
should  be  introduced  only  after  the  last  bowel  has  been 
emptied  by  hand  or  by  copious  enemas.  Clysters  are  given 
usually  to  aid  the  action  of  physics,  and  should  be  in  suffi- 
cient quantity  to  cause  the  animal  to  eject  them.  Warm 
water,  salt  and  water,  or  soap  and  water,  one  gallon  or  more 
at  a  time  may  be  given  every  half  hour.  It  is  best  that  they 
be  not  discharged  immediately.  Liquids  may  be  injected  by 
means  of  a  large  syringe,  or  by  a  simple  funnel  made  for  the 
purpose  of  a  two-quart  pail  or  pan  seven  inches  in  diameter, 
to  which  a  pipe  sixteen  inches  long  is  soldered  at  right 
angles.  This  pipe  is  introduced  into  the  rectum  and  must 
be  made  perfectly  smooth  and  be  oiled  before  using.  Pour 
the  liquid  into  the  funnel  rapidly  after  it  is  inserted,  and  the 
bowels  will  be  drenched  as  quickly  and  effectively  as  by  a 
more  complicated  arrangement,  and  in 
safety.  Or  a  common  funnel  and  rubber 
pipe  will  answer  a  better  purpose.  Be- 
sides those  described,  there  are  few  or 

no  other  methods  for  administering  doses  that  are  necessary 
or  safe  enough  for  the  novice  to  attempt. 


72  DOCTORING. 

An  excellent  physic  ball  for  a  horse  is  made  of  powdered 
Barbadoes  aloes,  seven  drachms,  powdered  gentian,  two 
drachms,  and  sufficient  syrup  to  stick  it  into  a  hard  ball.  The 
ball  should  be  three  or  four  times  as  long  as  its  diameter. 
When  a  horse  has  been  physicked  severely  he  should  not 
have  any  hard  exercise  for  several  days,  but  should  be  walked 
a  little  every  day  and  allowed  to  stand  in  the  sun.  Bran 
mashes  should  take  the  place  of  his  regular  ration  for  three 
feeds,  water  often,  but  sparingly,  even  if  thirsty. 

Condition  powders  for  horses  are  not  only  expensive  and 
undesirable,  but  frequently  unsafe  as  well.  Recent  analyses 
of  condition  powders  selling  by  the  package  at  the  rate  of 
$1,000  per  ton,  have  been  found  to  contain  linseed  meal 
principally,  with  small  quantities  of  camphor  and  other 
drugs,  more  or  less  harmful,  in  varying  amounts,  the  mix- 
ture not  costing  the  manufacturers  over  $28  to  $30  per  ton. 
As  a  natural  tonic  for  the  system,  the  safest  and  best  condi- 
tion powder  permissible  under  all  conditions  is  good  food, 
perhaps  placing  linseed  meal  at  the  head  of  the  list  of  grains. 
It  imparts  strength  and  tone  to  the  system,  nourishing  the 
nerves  as  well  as  the  muscles,  acting  like  a  gentle  laxative 
upon  the  bowels,  mellowing  the  hide,  glossing  the  coat,  and 
removing  it  betimes  in  the  spring.  No  prescription  is  bet- 
ter than  the  following,  as  a  rule :  Dried  sulphate  of  iron, 
two  drachms,  powdered  gentian  and  powdered  fenugreek,  of 
each  four  drachms,  all  in  one  powder,  to  be  put  in  the  feed 
night  and  morning  for  three  weeks. 

There  is  danger  in  using  many  of  the  advertised  tonics 
and  condition  powders  which  contain  arsenic.  These  bene- 
fit animals  at  first,  but  not  permanently. 

How  to  poultice  a  horse's  leg  is  often  a  problem,  espe- 
cially when  the  poultice  must  be  kept  at  a  point  high  up  or 
arching.  A  bag  is  prepared  a  little  larger  than  the  leg,  and 


DOCTORING.  73 

with  no  bottom.  Around  the  lower  edge  a  puckering  string 
is  run  in  to  tie  around  the  leg.  Next,  cords  two-thirds  the 
length  of  the  bag  are  made  fast  to  the  top  of  it,  and  then 
sewed  to  the  bottom,  so  the  lower  third  pouches  below  and 
outside  of  the  puckering  cord.  The  top  is  held  up  by  cords 
fastened  to  old  harness,  kept  on  the  horse.  The  poultice  is 
poured  in,  a  bountiful  quantity  being  used.  Such  a  bandage 
will  hold  it  in  place  without  waste  or  failure  unless  the  injury 
itch  or  pain  severely.  Then  the  animal  will  use  its  teeth 
upon  it,  if  allowed  to  reach  it. 

If  animals  must  be  killed,  humanity  requires  that  it  be 
done  in  the  quickest  and  least  painful  manner. 
For  shooting  a  horse,  place  the  pistol  muzzle 
within  a  few  inches  of  the  head,  and  shoot  at 
the  place  marked  above  by  a  dot,  aiming 
to  ward  the  center  of  the  head.  If  it  must  be 
done  by  blows,  blindfold,  and  with  a  heavy  axe 
or  hammer  strike  at  the  same  spot  as  above. 
Two  vigorous,  well  directed  blows  should  make  death  sure. 
Be  careful  not  to  shoot  or  strike  too  low. 

If  there  is  no  other  way  to  get  rid  of  dead  carcasses  cover 
them  with  earth  a  few  inches  deep  and  burn  them.  The 
earth  will  absorb  a  good  part  of  the  gases  and  when  burning 
put  on  more.  When  all  burned,  cover  up  well  with  earth 
and  then  mix  the  mass  and  sow  it  broadcast  on  any  land  and 
it  will  tell  wonderfully. 


Spare  me  up  and  spare  me  down, 
But  spare  me  not  on  level  ground. 


MARE  MAXIMS. 


JOHN  TlK'KKR  says: 

Don  t  breed  scrubs.      If  s  wicked. 

If  we  breed  our  colts  in  the  autumn  we  reduce  their  cost, 
-as  tJie  mare  can  do  team  work  all  summer. 

The  same  mare  to  tJie  same  horse  and  all  the  neighbors 
doing  the  same  thing  will  get  tJie  matches. 

Mares  bred  at  home,  not  traveled,  are  more  sure.  In 
many  cases  it  would  be  better  to  take  the  mare  to  tJie  stable 
•of  the  sire  before  the  time  of  heat  and  leave  her  a  few  davs 
^after  service.  Anyway,  she  shotild  be  walked  all  the  wav 
home. 

The  old  mare  should  be  kept  breeding,  for  if  you  skip 
#ver  a  year  she  mav  not  conceive  again.  J\Iares  will  breed 
usually  till  twenty,  and  often  for  years  after. 

We  would  not  risk  feeding  rye  to  mares  in  foal,  as  the 
<ergot  which  is  so  common  in  rye  acts  directly  on  the  womb 
and  uterus.  Ergot  is  a  poison. 

If  you  have  a  colt  arrive -,  don't  feed  the  mare  largely  on 
Jiay  for  a  week  or  two.  Give  her  nourishing  and  more  con- 
centrated foods.  Her  form  will  be  better. 

Pick  out  clean  legs  and  a  good  temper,  as  well  as  perform- 
ance and  pedigree,  if  you  are  buying  a  mare  to  breed. 

Heavy  mane  and  tail  look  pretty,  but  seldom  are  marks 
j}f  a  good  horse. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

MARK    AM)    COI.T. 

Have  an   Aim   in    Breeding — Breeding  Farm   Horses — The 
Foal — Feeding  the  Colt — General  Observations. 

A  good  mare  will  pay  the  mortgage. 

Keep  the  trotter  notion  out  of  your  head.      Trotters  make 
mortgages. 


FAMOUS    IN   THEIR    DAY. 


\Ye  should  rear  our  own  teams  and  then  we  can  know  of 
what  they  are  made.  \Viien  a  man  buys  a  horse  he  does 
not  know  how  many  hereditary  spavins,  ring  bones,  curbs  or 
blind  eyes,  or  how  much  heaves  he  is  purchasing  at  a  big 
price  per  pound. 


j6  MARE   AND   COLT. 

Have  an  aim  in  breeding  and  try  to  breed  all  of  the  colts 
to  a  standard.  They  will  then  make  pairs  and  sell  for 
more.  A  whole  town  should  unite  in  this  and  make  a  repu- 
tation for  good  horses  and  horses  alike.  Where  this  is  done 
money  will  flow  in  like  a  steady  stream. 

Defects  caused  by  accidents  should  not  debar  a  good 
mare  from  being  a  breeder.  Such  as  pin-hipped,  or  injuries 
caused  by  overwork  or  bad  shoeing.  Avoid  a  kicker,  a 
puller  or  a  balky  mare. 

Many  a  man  owning  a  valuable  road  mare  will  not  breed 
her  because  he  dislikes  to  spoil  her  shape.  But  this  trouble 
can  be  entirely  prevented  by  care  directly  after  foaling.  The 
dam  has  a  feeling  of  emptiness  succeeding  parturition,  and 
will  eat  abnormally  if  not  restrained.  If  this  inclination  is 
controlled  for  three  or  four  days  she  will  return  to  her  nor- 
mal form.  Soothing,  laxative  and  nutritious  food  must  be 
administered  and  no  stuffing  done  with  hay. 

The  farmer  should  never  fool  with  trotters  unless  he  hap- 
pens to  have  a  genuine,  full-bred  trotting  mare,  and  if  he 
has  such  a  one  he  should  sell  it.  Paper  trotters  are  no 
good,  neither  are  those  which  make* fast  time  around  bar- 
room stoves.  Blood  will  tell  with  trotters,  but  it  must  be 
there.  The  last  kind  of  horses  for  farmers  to  breed  are  the 
expected  trotters. 

What  are  you  going  to  do  ?  Are  you  going  to  breed  farm 
horses?  Then  get  a  pony-built,  solid  mare  and  take  her  to 
the  same  kind  of  a  horse,  weighing  about  1,200  pounds. 
You  want  a  mare  and  horse  with  a  good,  strong  walking 
gait  and  a  square,  steady  trotting  motion.  Avoid  the  lungers, 
the  high-steppers  and  the  fast  trotting  action.  Such  horses 
will  not  settle  down  to  the  slow  and  steady  gait  required  on 
the  farm  and  for  hauling  loads,  and  they  are  not  so  strong. 
They  will  fret  and  fume  and  tear  themselves  all  to  pieces. 


MARE   AND   COLT.  77 

Going  to  such  sires  and  using  such  dams  to  breed  work  horses 
is  cruelty  to  man  and  beast.  A  horse  is  fitted  for  its  business 
just  as  much  as  a  minister,  a  lawyer  or  a  doctor.  And  when 
you  get  one  out  of  its  natural  profession  you  make  a  mistake. 
Such  animals  will  do  better  to  go  single ;  but  then  they  are 
apt  to  be  fretty. 

If  the  mare  is  difficult  to  get  with  foal  or  has  never  had  a 
colt,  take  her  to  the  sire  at  the  first  heat  in  the  spring.  Try 
a  young  horse  which  has  been  exercised  all  winter.  If  these 
attempts  fail  turn  her  to  pasture  with  a  stud  colt,  and  let  her 
run  there  a  couple  of  months. 

It  is  a  mistake  to  work  a  mare  all  day  and  tire  her  out, 
and  then  take  her  to  the  horse.  The  best  time  is  in  the 
morning  when  she  is  not  exhausted.  Let  there  be  full  vigor, 
and  never  force  at  the  time  of  stinting. 

A  foal  may  come  any  time,  but  in  the  early  spring  is 
best.  Autumn  colts  will  do  well  if  carefully  wintered.  Colts 
born  in  midsummer — fly-time — should  be  housed  during  the 
day,  and  the  mare  fed  green  food.  These  extra  cares  are 
an  objection  to  this  time  of  breeding.  The  surest  time  for 
conception  is  the  ninth  day  after  foaling. 

If  a  mare  is  inclined  not  to  have  much  milk  before  foal- 
ing, feed  her  for  six  weeks  ahead  to  produce  milk.  Give 
her  clover  hay  ;  carrots,  a  peck  a  day  in  two  feeds  ;  wheat 
middlings,  six  quarts  and  oats  six  quarts.  Rub  her  udder 
several  times  a  day  and  stretch  it. 

A  mare  carries  her  foal  from  eleven  months  to  fourteen, 
usually  about  eleven. 

As  mares  vary  so  much  in  the  period  of  gestation,  the 
only  safe  plan  is  to  put  your  animal  in  a  separate  stable  or 
suitable  box-stall  at  about  ten  months  from  service. 

When  a  mare  in  foal  gets  all  the  clover  hay  she  wants, 
she  has  the  best  food  she  can  have,  and  no  grain  is  neces- 


78  MARE   AND   COLT. 

sary.  When  she  is  fed  mostly  on  straw,  she  requires  bran 
or  oats  to  make  up  the  elements  required  to  keep  up  her 
vitality  and  to  make  the  colt  strong. 

Many  persons  think  that  a  mare  should  rest  from  work  for 
several  weeks  before  foaling.  It  is  not  so.  If  a  brood 
mare  has  been  accustomed  to  farm  work  before  she  is  with 
foal,  let  her  continue  at  such  work,  without  forcing  her,  until 
she  is  about  ready  to  drop  her  colt.  Regular  and  moderate 
exercise  is  as  necessary  to  the  health  and  comfort  of  horses 
as  it  is  of  human  beings,  and  in  no  way  can  brood  mares 
have  it  better  than  by  being  used  in  the  manner  to  which 
their  muscles  have  been  accustomed.  Of  course,  she  should 
rest  a  few  days  after  the  colt  is  born,  on  her  account  and  the 
colt's  also.  Straining  work  is  not  good,  but  any  kind  of 
light  work  will  not  injure. 

To  dry  a  mare  up  in  her  milk,  feed  her  straw  for  a 
few  days,  or  a  little  hay,  and  rub  soft  soap  on  her  udder. 
Give  her  a  reduced  amount  of  water.  Milk  the  udder  out 
only  partially  each  day. 

Choose  mares  that  are  young,  sound,  roomy  and  of  good 
disposition.  They  are  better  if  larger  than  the  horse,  rather 
than  smaller. 

The  stallion  must  not  have  ring  bone,  navicular  disease, 
cataract;  unsound  feet  or  bad  temper,  however  beautiful  in 
form  he  may  be. 

Impotency  in  stallions  is  caused  more  by  want  of  exercise 
than  by  any  other  cause.  Feeding  fattening  foods  is  also  a 
chief  cause.  Moderate  work  is  better  than  idleness.  Any 

work  which  is  not  straining 
is  beneficial. 

The  paddock  for  a  stal- 
lion is  drawn  so  as  to  show 
the  inside,  which   has   a  sloping   fender  four    feet  high  to 


MARK   AND   COLT.  79 

prevent  the  horse  from  getting  cast.  It  is  a  safe  paddock.. 
The  door  has  its  fender  fastened  to  it,  so  that  when  shut  the 
whole  inside  is  protected  alike.  A  scantling  from  the  bot- 
tom to  the  side  in  the  corners  and  middle  keeps  the  fenders 
in  place. 

Good  food,  good  water,  these  I  need ; 

For  kindness  also  do  I  plead ; 

Good  grooming,  too,  will  not  be  vain — 

'  Tis  health  to  me — to  you  great  gain  ; 

Daily,  /  beg,  this  care  renew — 

This  is  your  duty — this  my  due. 

If  the  foal  be  born  in  the  foetal  membranes  it  must  be  lib- 
erated at  once  or  it  will  suffocate.  If  the  navel  cord  is  not 
ruptured  it  may  be  tightly  tied  in  two  places  near  together 
and  cut  between  the  cordings,  or  it  may  be  severed  by 
scraping  it  with  a  dull  knife  about  two  inches  from  the 
navel. 

Colts  will  bleed  to  death  if  the  umbilical  cord  is  severed 
too  close  to  the  body  and  too  soon  after  the  colt  is  born. 
Watch  things  to  have  the  best  luck. 

If  the  dam  will  not  lick  it,  then  it  must  be  carefully 
rubbed  dry  with  hay  and  cloth  and  its  hair  left  straight.  It 
must  also  be  kept  warm.  The  first  milk  of  the  mare  acts  as 
a  physic  upon  her  offspring. 

Be  sure  the  little  foal  gets  some  suck.  It  is  sure  to  do 
well  if  it  should  suck  within  a  half  hour  after  being  born. 

Don't  be  such  a  goose  as  to  tie  a  mare  that  is  due  to  foal. 
Give  her  a  box-stall. 

The  sucking  colt  can  be  injured  by  his  own  mother's 
milk,  if  allowed  to  draw  it  while  she  is  overheated  from  work 
or  driving. 

When  the  colt  is  born  during  the  heat  of  summer  it  is  not 
safe  to  leave  the  mare  out  in  the  sun  with  it  until  it  is  a  few 


80  MARE   AND   COLT. 

days  old,  as  the  colt  will  lie  down  and  it  may  be  killed  by 
the  heat. 

A  scouring  foal  should  have  careful  treatment.  Cover 
closely  with  a  warm  blanket  with  two  surcingles,  that  it  may 
keep  his  belly  warm,  and  bandage  the  legs  to  arms  and 
thighs.  Drench  with  sixteen  to  twenty  ounces  of  castor  oil 
containing  one-quarter  ounce  of  laudanum.  Give  but  little 
drink,  and  make  it  tepid.  Feed  rice  boiled  to  a  pulp  in  new 
milk,  and  one  quart  of  new  milk  maybe  given  daily.  When 
the  foal  is  stronger,  give  a  few  crushed  oats  and  good  old 
hay.  A  slight  looseness  of  the  bowels  may  cause  no  anxiety, 
as  this  is  natural  with  young  colts.  If  the  little  colt  does 
not  get  milk  enough,  feed  it  milk  and  oatmeal  made  into  a 
thin  gruel. 

The  greatest  trouble  with  little  colts,  when  young,  is  con- 
stipation. This  may  be  regulated  by  giving  the  mother 
sloppy  food,  such  as  scalded  bran.  If  the  foal  is  bound  up, 
when  born,  give  it  an  injection  at  once  of  starch,  molasses 
and  warm  water.  Repeat  every  half  hour  until  relief  comes. 
As  he  gets  older,  relieve  constipation  with  linseed  meal,  po- 
tatoes or  carrots.  ^ 

A  great  many  farmers  who  raise  colts  don't  seem  to  know 
that  it  pays  to  feed  colts  well  from  the  beginning,  and  to 
make  them  grow  as  fast  as  possible.  They  should  not  feed 
for  spavins,  ring  bones,  and  other  blemishes  or  defects  in  the 
limbs,  and  yet  they  do.  Some  men's  colts  are  always  un- 
sound in  their  limbs,  and  the  reason  is  they  do  not  have 
food  suitable  to  make  a  perfect  development  of  the  bones,  ten- 
dons, tissues  and  muscles. 

Do  not  imagine  the  colt  is  all  right  because  it  has  all  the 
hay  it  can  eat.  This  is  not  wisdom.  Give  it  less  hay  and 
two  to  four  quarts  of  bran  and  oats  mixed,  according  to  its 
size.  This  kind  of  food  will  make  strong  bone  and  joints. 


MARK    AND    COLT.  8t 

What  is  a  colt  good  for  without  good  joints  ?  They  are  worth 
more  than  size  or  style.  We  can  have  both,  but  by  all  means 
have  good  joints,  and  to  get  them  there  must  be  phosphates 
in  the  feed,  and  the  bran  and  oats  contain  these. 

If  the  little  colt  is  fed  cow's  milk,  it  should  be  boiled,  as 
it  will  then  digest  it  easier. 


A   DAISY    FOR   THE   YOUNGSTERS. 


]  f  the  weanlings  are  kept  in  the  stable,  give  them  plenty 
of  bedding,  so  that  there  will  be  some  spring  under  their 
feet.  Sawdust  is  good.  Colts  kept  on  a  dry,  hard  floor  will 
get  sore  in  their  joints  and  may  become  curbed  or  throw  out 
ring  bones.  Standing  on  manure  is  not  good.  If  the  floor  is 
wet  and  slippery  they  are  likely  to  slip,  and  in  this  way  be- 
come blemished. 


82  MARE   AND    COLT. 

Don't  leave  the  colts  out  in  a  cold  rainstorm.  Better  let 
them  go  hungry  for  a  little  while  than  expose  them  in  this 
way. 

Looks  go  a  great  ways.  The  colt  that  is  groomed  clean, 
and  is  made  gentle  and  handy,  will  sell  for  a  good  price ; 
while  the  unkempt,  wild  and  unbroken  colt,  will  not  sell 
at  all. 

If  the  colt  carries  his  tail  on  one  side,  employ  a  skilled 
veterinary  surgeon  who  will  cut  a  cord  on  the  opposite  side, 
which  will  remedy  the  difficulty  and  add  fifty  dollars  to  the 
value  of  your  horse. 

If  the  colt's  ankles  seem  a  little  tired  and  weak  after  driv- 
ing, bathe  them  thoroughly  with  cold  salt  and  water  and 
wrap  them  in  bandages,  but  do  not  bandage  them  tightly. 

If  a  colt  should  turn  out  to  be  very  excitable  or  nervous, 
the  feed  of  oats  should  be  cut  down  or  stopped  altogether. 


TAKEN    ON    HIS    FIRST    BIRTHDAY. 


CHAPTER  X. 


(  AT10N. 


It  .Should  Begin  Early — Some  Methods 
sary  —  Tying    Securely  —  Forming 
General. 


— Gentleness  Neces- 
Good     Habits  —  In 


A  colt  should  be  really  broken  before  it  is  ever  put  before 
any  vehicle,  and  then  there  will  be  little  trouble  with  it.  To 
hitch  a  wrild  and  unmanageable 
colt  to  a  wagon  or  a  sleigh  the 
first  time  is  about  as  foolish  a 
thing  as  can  be  done.  It  should 
be  taught  to  do  everything  re- 
quired of  it  except  pulling  at  the 
collar,  before  it  is  ever  made  fast 
to  anything,  and  then  there  is  no 
danger  of  its  getting  frightened 
and  learning  any  tricks.  A  prom- 
ising colt  may  be  ruined  in  a 
minute  with  such  foolishness.  A 
colt  learns  one  thing  at  a  time,  and  to  attempt  to  crowd  the 
whole  horse  education  into  it  at  once,  and  its  first  lesson, 
shows  more  jackass  than  horse  sense.  Go  slow,  be  cool, 
try  little  and  persevere,  should  be  the  horseman's  motto. 

The  young  colt  cannot  be  trained  too  early.  In  fact,  the 
sooner  he  is  disciplined  the  more  quickly  he  is  subju- 
gated, and  with  the  least  danger  to  himself  and  owner. 

After  halter  breaking,  which  should  be  begun  so  young- 
that  he  will  never  know  liberty  of  head,  he  should  at  first  be 
taught  to  lead,  by  being  tied  opposite  his  dam  on  short  trips- 


84  THE  COLT'S  EDUCATION. 

Very  soon  he  should  be  gently  accustomed  to  the  harness 
and  taught  its  harmless  ness,  and  then  broken  to  the  bit. 
Next,  a  strong  line  should  extend  from  the  bit  nearest  the 
shaft  and  fastened  firmly  to  it,  and  another  line  should  run 
from  the  opposite  bit  through  the  turret  ring  and  to  the 
hand  of  the  driver.  Thus,  the  pair  can  be  driven  together, 
the  youngster's  gait  being  constantly  influenced,  and  quite  a 
little  speed  developed  without  having  him  draw  or  carry  any 
weight,  and  while  he  feels  the  conditions  are  perfectly 
natural.  The  only  difficulty  to  be  encountered  will  be  that 
the  colt  will  get  in  the  way  of  the  wheel.  This  is  easily 
avoided  by  attaching  a  small  bent  pole  to  the  shaft  at  one 
end  and  at  the  other  end  to  a  piece  of  iron  in  the  shape  of  a 
wrench,  which  must  be  firmly  keyed  to  the  nut  of  the  wheel, 
on  the  side  where  the  colt  is  driven. 

As  the  colt  grows  older,  he  may  be  attached  by  traces  to 
a  light  bar  extending  from  the  shafts,  and  allowed  to  feel 
the  collar,  and  get  accustomed  to  all  the  shake  and  rattle  of 
road  gear,  of  which  the  unbroken  three-year-old  is  at  first 
so  much  afraid.  The  youngster  may  be  too  small  for  any 
harness  at  first,  but  it  is  easy  to  get  up  a  simple  and  strong 
one. 

If  home-made  (which  it  may  be  without  expense),  nothing 
besides  leather  is  so  good  as  two  small  manilla  ropes,  side 
by  side.  After  the  little  harness  is  completed,  soak  it  in 
fine  tar,  and  dry  it  thoroughly,  and  it  will  be  almost  inde- 
structible and  easily  washed. 

The  first  lesson  the  colt  should  learn  is  confidence  in  the 
master.  Getting  mad  and  saying  cuss  words  will  not  give  a 
colt  confidence,  but  gentleness  and  a  little  sugar  will. 

No  harsh  word  should  ever  be  spoken  in  the  hearing  of  a 
colt.  Everything  should  be  done  to  teach  him  that  man  is 
his  friend.  His  education  cannot  begin  too  early.  The 


T11K    COLT'S    EDUCATION.  85 

longer  it  is  postponed,  the  more  difficult  it  becomes,  and  the 
more  patience  it  demands. 

Care  should  be  had  when  a  colt  is  first  driven  not  to  get 
it  heated,  or  it  will  become  more  restive,  and  slouch  around 
in  the  harness,  and  likely  enough  stop,  or  try  to  lie  down 
and  roll. 

Never  work  about  a  colt  rapidly,  as  if  in  a  hurry ;  it  only 
makes  him  nervous,  and  this  causes  him  to  lose  presence  of 
mind.  Whipping  is  rarely  better  than  coaxing  and  petting. 

If  the  colt  is  stubborn  about  taking  the  bit,  lead  it  into  a 
stall  and  put  a  rope  with  a  slipping  noose  around  its  neck  ;. 
then  put  the  bit  into  its  mouth,  doing  the  work  as  gently  as 
possible.  The  colt  will  very  likely  pull  back  and  choke 
itself.  After  a  moment's  choking  relieve  it  and  try  again. 
With  a  few  such  lessons  the  colt  will  hold  its  head  down  and 
give  no  more  trouble. 

After  the  colt  has  learned  to  be  guided  by  the  bit,  he 
should  be  used  in  various  ways  for  a  week  before  he  is 
driven.  The  first  lesson  will  be  to  get  him  accustomed  to 
the  harness.  He  should  not  be  frightened  by  it,  but  care- 
fully taught  what  it  is.  He  should  smell  of  it,  look  it  over 
and  learn  it  will  not  harm  him,  during  several  hours  if  nec- 
essary. Previous  to  driving,  the  colt  should  be  led  an  hour 
every  day  and  taught  to  draw  by  the  collar  and  whiffletree 
many  things  like  a  stick  of  timber,  bush,  stoneboat  or  other 
things  of  which  he  is  likely  to  be  afraid  in  the  future.  He 
should  become  accustomed  from  the  first  to  robes,  umbrellas, 
high  loads,  blanketed  cattle,  steam  rollers,  locomotives  and 
whatever  else  of  which  he  is  likely  to  be  afraid.  He  must 
be  quietly  but  firmly  led  up  to  the  object  of  his  fear,  being 
talked  to  kindly  meanwhile. 

Tying.  During  the  first  two  or  three  years  of  his  life  in 
servitude  he  should  never  be  fastened  by  anything  smaller 


S6  THE  COLT'S  EDUCATION. 

than  a  half-inch  manilla  rope,  which  should  be  long  enough 
to  permit  secure  tying.  And  he  should  never  be  fastened  to 
anything  he  may  break  off  or  move.  If  he  becomes  afraid 
of  that  to  which  he  is  tied  or  learns  he  can  break  loose  he 
will  always  make  trouble  about  standing,  and  the  horse 
which  has  once  run  away  can  be  depended  upon  but  little 
afterwards. 

Shying  at  objects  is  made  worse  by  harshness.  Keep  a 
sharp  lookout  and  a  tight  rein.  Whenever  the  colt  shies, 
stop  him  and  let  him  look  at  the  object  of  his  fear.  If  the 
•colt  manifests  great  fear  of  the  cars,  do  not  drive  him  attached 
to  the  carriage  as  near  as  possible,  and  then  compel  him  by 
harshness  to  stand. 

Do  not  hitch  up  a  colt  and  give  him  a  chance  to  kick. 
Don't  trust  him  until  he  has  gotten  accustomed  to  everything. 
Give  him  the  benefit  of  the  doubt,  and  let  him  wear  a  sure 
anti-kicking  strap  that  will  nip  in  the  bud  any  tendency  in 
this  damaging  direction.  As  commonly  applied,  the  kick- 
ing strap  is  a  useless  appendage,  as  many  horsemen  have 
found  out  to  their  sorrow.  To  be  sure  of  its  controlling 
power  in  every  case,  have  it  strapped  to  the  crupper  and  kept 
at  the  root  of  the  tail.  If  it  slip  up  or  down  it  is  likely  to 
be  a  menace  to  the  driver's  safety.  This  vice  is  exceedingly 
difficult  for  a  horse  to  forget,  and  few  are  ever  broken  of  it. 
A  good  horseman  says  that  in  training  a  colt  disposed  to 
kick  up  put  a  wooden  or  iron  martingale  on  him — that  is,  a 
forked  stick  like  a  pitchfork  ;  tie  the  forks  firmly  to  the  bit 
rings  ;  put  a  mortise  in  the  other  end  for  the  girth  to  go 
through.  He  cannot  kick  up  worth  a  cent  with  that  on. 

Fast  Walking.  A  horse  that  can  walk  fast  is  always  a 
source  of  pleasure,  while  a  slow  walker  is  an  abomination. 
While  much  comes  by  inheritance,  education  is  much  to  be 
credited  for  a  good  road  gait.  No  animal  so  quickly  forms 


THE   COLT'S    EDUCATION.  87 

a  habit  as  does  a  horse.  Give  him  the  chance  to  form  the 
habit  of  fast  walking.  Don't  tire  him  out  on  the  start  before 
you  ask  him  to  walk,  and  then  expect  him  to  walk  rapidly. 
Give  him  a  chance  to  show  his  ability  at  a  walk  when  he 
comes  fresh  from  the  stable.  If  he  feels  good,  so  much  the 
better ;  keep  him  down  to  a  walk  for  the  first  few  miles  and 
let  him  form  the  habit  of  walking  like  a  tornado.  The 
natural  inclination  will  be  to  walk  fast,  at  times  almost  break- 
ing into  a  trot.  If  this  is  continued  day  after  day  with  care 
that  the  colt  does  not  become  tired,  a  prompt,  or  even  very 
fast  walk,  will  be  as  natural  to  that  colt  as  eating. 

Time  and  persistent  care  taking  are  necessary  to  educate  a 
colt  into  a  good  and  pleasant  roadster,  but  once  done  the 
horse  will  have  a  higher  market  value  than  any  not  thus 
carefully  trained.  What  has  been  said  of  walking  is  true  of 
other  gaits.  When  the  pupil  is  started  faster  than  a  walk 
let  it  be  a  good  stiff  gait  of  eight  to  ten  miles  an  hour.  See 
that  the  colt  does  not  blunder  along  or  move  carelessly.  Let 
this  gait  be  maintained  until  he  has  changed  to  a  walk,  and, 
whether  the  beast  walk  or  trot,  let  it  be  a  good  road  gait, 
as  if  he  had  some  ambition,  though  the  top  of  his  speed  may 
not  be  aimed  at. 

Many  serious  accidents  would  be  avoided  if  every  colt 
were  taught  to  stop  at  the  word.  Be  patient,  and  try  to 
teach  but  one  thing  at  a  time,  and  educate  him  so  that  he 
will  not  be  startled  by  things  hitting  him. 

What  shall  be  done  for  a  colt  inclined  to  bite?  Be  kind 
to  it ;  but  if  it  bites,  chastise  it  on  the  spot. 

It  is  very  easy  to  spoil  a  colt  if  he  is  kept  tied  up  in  a  stall 
without  regular  exercise.  Don't  do  it. 

The  young  horse  not  yet  fully  broken  should  have  but  one 
driver.  A  firm,  quiet  tone  of  voice  and  gentle  manner  are 
invaluable  traits  in  a  trainer,  and  however  spirited  a  colt 


88 


THE   COLT'S    EDUCATION. 


may  be,  he  will  control  himself  even  when  badly  frightened, 
when  he  hears  the  reassuring  voice  of  his  driver. 

Don't  let  the  little  colt  follow  his  dam  at  work  all  day  or 
on  a  long  drive.  The  tender  cartilages  in  his  limbs  are  not 
able  to  bear  constant  use.  He  must  be  where  he  can  lie 
down  and  be  at  rest  two-thirds  of  the  time.  When  the  mare 
is  taken  away,  first  shut  him  up  where  he  cannot  in  any  way 
injure  himself.  A  plain  box-stall  without  undulations  in  the 
floor,  without  manger  or  ties  of  any  kind  is  best.  No  young 
animal  is  more  likely  to  get  into  mischief,  and  none  is  so 
easily  damaged. 


COLT  MAXIMS. 


JOHN  TUCKER  says  : 

Is  the  colt  uneasy  because  a  botfly  is  about  ?  Don  V  kill 
the  colt ;  kill  the  fly. 

Above  all  things,  don't  train  a  colt  in  a  weak  harness. 
Have  everything  strong  and  heavy,  if  it  has  to  be  made  of 
inch  rope. 

It  is  a  poor  rule  that  won"1 1  work  both  ways.  The  colt 
should  learn  to  back  as  pleasantly  as  he  draws. 

Feed  the  joints  of  the  colts.    How  ?     With  oats  and  bran. 

If  the  growing  colt  reaches  up  for  its  hay  it  will  tend  to- 
make  it  higher  headed. 

No  lesson  of  greater  importance  can  be  taught  the  colt 
than  of  standing  still  while  one  is  entering  or  leaving  the 
wagon. 

Be  very  careful  when  turning  out  or  calling  up  the  colts 
not  to  get  them  in  the  habit  of  being  hard  to  catch.  A  horse 
that  comes  when  called  is  worth  more  money  on  the  farm 
than  a  shy  catcher.  Always  treat  the  colts  to  something  they 
like  when  they  come  to  you,  and  never  by  a  quick  act  scare- 
them  away. 

Each  time  you  take  the  colt  near  the  cars  and  coax  him 
into  gentleness  you  make  him  more  valuable.  Whipping  and 
loud  talk  only  make  him  worse  for  the  next  time.  A  horse- 
that  loses  his  head  about  the  cars  is  of  little  worth. 


CHAPTER  XL 

THE    FOOT. 

Description — The  Barefooted  Horse — Some  Ailments  of  the 
Foot;  How  Caused  and  Cured. 

The  foot  is  a  delicate  package  covered  with  horn  in  vary- 
ing thickness  and  hardness,  making  wall,  sole  and  frog. 
Besides  containing  the  foot  bones  (coffin,  navicular  and  part 
of  the  small  pastern  bones),  it  holds  the  sensitive  lamina: 
plantar  cushion  and  the  lateral  cartilages.  It  is  thus  beau- 
tifully described  by  A.  A.  Holcombe,  D.  V.  S.: 

"  The  sole  incloses  the  hoof  on  the  ground  surface,  hav- 
ing a  V-shaped  opening  at  the  rear  for  the  frog.  It  is  pro- 
•duced  by  the  velvety  tissue,  a  thin  membrane  covering  the 
plantar  cushion,  and  other  soft  tissues  beneath  the  coffin 
bone.  The  horn  of  the  sole  differs  from  the  horn  of  the 
wall,  in  that  its  tubes  are  not  straight  and  it  scales  off  in 
pieces.  The  frog  is  a  triangular  body  divided  by  a  deep 
fissure,  and  is  attached  to  the  sole  by  its  borders.  The  horn 
of  the  frog  is  produced  in  the  same  manner  as  the  sole,  but 
it  is  soft,  moist,  elastic.  It  is  the  function  of  the  frog  to  de- 
stroy shock  and  prevent  slipping.  The  sensitive  laminae  are 
thin  plates  of  soft  tissue  covering  the  anterior  surface  of  the 
coffin  bone.  They  are  present  in  great  numbers,  and  by 
fitting  into  corresponding  grooves  on  the  inner  surface  of  the 
wall  the  union  of  the  soft  and  horny  tissue  is  made  com 
plete.  The  plantar  cushion  is  a  thick  pad  of  fibrous  tissue 
behind  and  under  the  navicular  and  coffin  bones  and  resting 


THE   FOOT.  9! 

on  the  sole  and  frog.  They  receive  the  downward  pressure 
of  the  column  of  bones  and  destroy  shock." 

It  is  easy  to  understand  from  the  above  something  of  the 
delicate  character  of  the  horse's  foot. 

Ordinarily  the  horses  may  be  kept  at  work  without  inter- 
ruption, whether  barefooted  or  not.  There  is  not  one  per 
cent,  of  danger  in  this  respect  which  is  usually  feared.  If 
the  barefooted  horse  actually  becomes  so  tender  as  to  limp, 
a  condition  of  affairs  which  will  rarely  be  seen  except  under 
the  severest  circumstances,  the  tenderness  will  only  be  tem- 
porary and  in  no  way  injure  his  value.  If  this  stage  should 
develop,  thin,  light  toe-clips  may  be  tacked  on,  or  a  piece  of 
the  best  sole  leather  shaped  to  fit  the  foot  and  nailed  to  it 
the  same  as  a  shoe.  When  this  is  worn  off  the  foot  will 
have  regained  its  natural  toughness  and  none  of  the  elas- 
ticity of  the  frog  will  have  been  destroyed  meanwhile. 
Some  horses  with  thin  soles  will  require  this  protection  for  a 
short  time,  more,  however,  because  of  stepping  upon  small 
stones,  etc.,  and  causing  temporary  change  of  gait,  than  be- 
cause the  foot  is  worn  down.  Actual  wearing  is  beneficial 
rather  than  otherwise,  as  it  encourages  nature  to  put  forth  an 
effort  toward  self-protection,  which  results  in  bigger,  better 
feet,  including  a  growth  of  that  wonderful  cushion,  the  frog. 
The  leather  shoe  will  require  close  watching,  and  the  team- 
ster should  carry  pincers  to  remove  the  nails  at  any  time  they 
project  in  a  way  threatening  to  scratch  the  horse. 

Go  slow  about  having  the  colt  shod.  If  he  has  been  al- 
lowed sufficient  exercise  his  feet  will  be  strong  and  tough, 
and  you  may  go  right  on  working  and  driving  without  shoes 
by  standing  in  wet  clay  occasionally  an  hour  or  two.  Should 
his  hoofs  become  short  and  tender,  have  him  shod  with  tips, 
which  are  very  light,  short,  narrow  shoes,  only  reaching 
back  to  where  the  last  nail  is  usually  driven,  leaving  the 


92  THE   FOOT. 

heels  without  protection.  The  shoe  to  be  countersunk  into  the 
hoofs  until  on  a  level  with  the  heels,  never  paring  the  frog, 
heels  or  sole,  and  only  putting  in  four  nails,  two  on  a  side. 
Now  your  colt  can  work  and  travel  again,  the  frog  taking 
hold  of  the  ground  and  preventing  slipping.  If  he  is  re- 
quired to  do  heavy  pulling  on  rough,  hard,  frozen  and  icy 
roads,  we  know  of  no  better  appliance  than  the  customary 
shoe  with  short,  sharp  toes  and  calks. 

As  soon  as  the  necessity  for  the  shoes  is  passed  return  to 
the  tips  or  no  shoes  at  all.  The  horse  accustomed  to  shoes 
may  have  them  removed  when  frost  is  gone.  If  hard  and 
brittle  stand  the  hoofs  in  water  two  hours  at  a  time  and 
poultice  with  cake  meal  at  night.  If  the  hoofs  become  too 
short  have  on  tips  and  exercise  or  work  not  too  hard  until 
the  hoofs  regain  their  natural  condition,  when  he  will  stand 
the  work,  unless  it  be  much  upon  the  turnpike  or  he  is  flat- 
footed,  when  v/e  must  use  the  old-style  shoe  until  invention 
brings  something  better.  Use  care  and  judgment  in  restor- 
ing the  feet  to  their  natural  condition,  and  you  will  be  sur- 
prised to  find  that  many  horses  can  do  good  service  the  year 
around  without  shoes. 

Lift  up  the  horse's  foot  and  see  if  the  rim  of  the  shoe  is 
inside  of  the  shell  of  the  hoof,  and  if  it  is  start  a  boy  with 
that  horse  to  the  shoesmith,  or  take  the  chances  of  corns  on 
your  horse. 

An  overgrowth  of  hoof  and  a  consequent  hardening  of 
the  foot  are  fruitful  sources  of  lameness.  The  elasticity  of 
the  hoof  is  in  itself  a  factor  preventing  lameness,  dividing 
up,  as  it  does,  the  effects  of  concussion  between  the  hoof 
and  the  500  sensitive  laminae  that  connect  it  to  the  foot 
within  the  hoof-box. 

Keep  the  feet  pliable  by  soaking  them  occasionally  during 
the  drouth  of  summer.  A  horse  whose  feet  are  too  dry  will 


THE    FOOT.  93 

often  flinch  and  limp  on  striking  against  or  stepping  upon 
an  obstruction,  when  he  would  not  mind  it  in  wet  weather. 
Don't  oil  the  hoof.  It  does  not  take  the  place  of  water,  and 
filling  the  hoof  cells  keeps  out  moisture  when  it  comes. 
Soak  in  a  tub,  or  by  packing  the  feet  with  linseed  meal 
mush  or  wet  moss.  If  a  tub  is  not  handy,  stand  the  horse 
on  a  thick  blanket  folded  several  times  and  soaked  in  water. 
Moisten  the  walls  by  a  loose  bandage  about  each  fetlock, 
pouring  on  warm  water  frequently.  Many  of  the  hoof  oint- 
ments, moreover,  are  positively  injurious  if  regularly  used  to 
any  extent.  They  are  generally  of  a  character  to  injure  the 
hoof,  shutting  up  the  pores  in  the  horn,  thus  retarding  or 
preventing  the  natural  and  proper  circulation  in  the  hoof  and 
producing  ruinous  results. 

When  some  horses  lie  down  they  strike  the  back  part  of 
the  fore  leg  with  the  calks  of  their  shoes  and  bruise  it.  After 
awhile  a  callous  comes  on  and  a  sore.  The  only  way  to 
prevent  it  is  to  put  a  thick  pad  around  the  horse  when  stand- 
ing in  the  stable,  to  keep  the  shoe  from  bruising  the  place. 
Dress  the  sore  with  any  sort  of  liniment,  an  i  grease  it  till 
it  is  healed. 

Puncture.  It  is  dangerous  for  a  horse  to  step  on  a  nail,  as 
it  is  likely  to  result  in  lockjaw.  Have  the  blacksmith  cut 
out  the  puncture  down  to  tender  flesh,  then  fill  the  opening 
with  a  five  per  cent,  solution  of  carbolic  acid  and  pack  with 
cotton  to  keep  out  dirt,  and  repeat  daily,  soaking  the  foot  in 
clean  warm  water  before  dressing. 

Navicular  Disease  is  indicated  by  a  shrunken  shoulder, 
and  a  contracted  foot  that  is  placed  several  inches  in  advance 
of  the  other  while  at  rest.  This  is  an  inflammation  or  ulcer- 
ation  of  the  pedal  sesamoid  at  the  point  where  the  tendons 
play  over  it.  The  symptoms  are  often  very  obscure,  accord- 
ing to  the  stage  of  the  disease,  and  the  lameness  is  attributed 


94  THE   FOOT. 

to  some  difficulty  in  the  shoulder.  This,  however,  is  a  mis- 
take. It  is  due  to  the  wasting  of  the  shoulder  muscles  from 
disease.  The  cause  is  usually  fast  work  on  hard  roads  or 
pavements,  causing  slight  inflammation,  which  being  un- 
noticed or  neglected,  increases  and  ends  in  ulceration.  The 
best  treatment  is  to  remove  the  shoe,  pare  down  the  hoof- 
wall  and  round  the  edge  to  prevent  splitting,  then  fire 
deeply  in  points  around  and  above  the  coronet,  follow  up 
with  one  or  more  blisters  of  red  iodide  of  mercury,  one  part, 
lard,  three  parts,  and  when  the  effects  pass  off,  turn  out  the 
animal  to  pasture  for  six  weeks.  It  is  always  best  to  consult, 
in  this  disease,  a  competent  veterinary  surgeon. 

Corns  originate  in  simple  bruises.  There  is  later  an  in- 
creased production  of  hoof,  and  the  formation  of  a  horny 
tumor  which  presses  on  the  quick.  If  of  recent  formation 
apply  a  bar  shoe  and  rasp  down  the  bearing  surface  of  the 
afflicted  heel  and  avoid  pressure.  Soak  the  feet.  A  horny 
tumor  must  be  pared  to  the  quick  and  packed  with  tar. 
Shoe  with  a  bar  shoe  and  place  a  leather  sole  between  it  and 
the  hoof.  If  the  corn  be  further  advanced  the  foot  should 
be  soaked  in  a  bucket  of  hot  water  for  an  hour,  and  then 
poulticed.  Any  matter  that  has  formed  should  be  liberated, 
and  if  grit  or  dirt  have  got  into  the  heel  this  should  be 
cleaned  out.  Poultices  should  be  kept  upon  the  wound  until 
it  is  healed  and  free  from  soreness.  If  the  cause  is  so  serious 
that  matter  has  burst  out  at  the  top  of  the  heel  a  veterinary 
surgeon  only  is  competent  to  manage  it. 

Thrush  is  a  disease  which  shows  an  excessive  secretion 
of  unhealthy  matter  in  the  frog,  and  is  detected  by  its  vile 
odor.  A  common  cause  is  foul  stables.  The  cure  consists 
in  cleanliness  and  the  removal  of  the  cause.  The  diseased 
and  ragged  portions  of  the  frog  should  be  pared  and  scraped 
and  the  foot  poulticed  for  a  day  or  two  with  oil  meal  and 


THE   FOOT.  95 

water,  to  which  may  be  added  a  few  drops  of  carbolic  acidr 
or  some  powdered  charcoal.  The  dressing  should  be  changed 
daily,  and,  after  every  vestige  of  decayed  substance  is  re- 
moved, the  cleft  of  the  frog  and  grooves  on  its  edges  should 
be  cleaned  and  packed  with  oakum,  held  in  place  by  leather 
nailed  on  with  the  shoe.  Before  packing  cover  the  place 
with  a  good  coat  of  sulphate  of  zinc,  pressing  well  in. 
Horses  especially  liable  to  thrush  may  need  to  be  protected 
in  the  stable  by  the  use  of  boots.  Sometimes  other  diseases 
combine  with  thrush,  making  a  cure  seem  impossible. 

To  determine  lameness  in  a  horse  offered  for  sale  lead  the 
animal  onto  a  hard  road  and  examine  him  from  various  po- 
sitions, from  before  and  behind,  and  from  each  side,  to  locate 
the  lameness.  The  head  bobs  to  that  side  of  the  body  which 
is  all  right.  If  the  lameness  is  in  the  left  fore  leg,  the  head 
drops  to  the  right.  In  posterior  lameness  the  weight  of  the 
body  drops  on  the  sound  leg.  That  is,  when  the  dropping 
of  the  hip  or  nod  of  the  head  occur  on  the  right  side  of  the 
body  at  the  time  the  feet  of  that  side  strike  the  ground,  the 
horse  is  lame  on  the  left  side.  If  the  motions  are  to  the 
near  side  when  these  feet  strike  the  ground,  the  lameness  is 
on  the  off  side.  The  foot  is  more  frequently  .the  seat  of 
lameness  than  any  other  part. 

A  slow  trot  is  the  best  gait  to  determine  lameness.  He 
will  show  it  more,  and  he  should  be  trotted  when  first  taken 
from  the  stable.  Watch  him  coming  out  of  the  stable — 
some  lamenesses  are  over  after  the  first  few  steps.  Some 
forms  of  lameness  are  only  noticeable  after  a  hard  day's  work 
or  a  hard  drive.  Never  buy  a  horse  until  you  see  how  he 
stands  a  hard  day's  work. 


HORSE  MAXIMS. 

JOHN  TUCKER  says : 

The  way  to  lift  the  mortgage  is  to  hitch  two  good  breeding 
mares  to  it  and  bid  them  go. 

The  difference  between  a  good  horseshoer  and  a  poor  one  : 
the  one  is  a  thinker ',  the  other  a  tinker. 

A  clean  stable  is  like  a  clean  Jieart.  It  means  better 
things. 

Cast-iron  rules  will  not  do  in  horse  management  anv  more 
Jhan  in  the  family. 

What  is  a  horse  good  for  without  sound  feet  ?• 

Some  horsemen  will  lie,  and  about  horses,  too.  It  is  mean, 
•but  it  is  so. 

It 's  poor  .policy  to  be  mooning  round  in  the  barn  with  a 
2antern. 

Nobody  is  more  fully  humbugged  than  a  farmer  who 
swallows  the  pedigree  of  a  mongrel  stallion. 

Bragging  does  not  make  a  good  horse. 

The  frog  in  a  horse^s  foot  is  a  buffet  against  lameness. 
Don't  let  the  smith  cut  it.  Let  it  be  as  large  and  as  low 
•as  possible. 

Light  shoes  are  better  than  heavy  ones  for  most  horses. 
Calks  are  often  added  when  they  are  not  needed.  Don't  use 
them  if  the  horse  can  do  without  them. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


Proper  Treatment  of  the  Feet  in  Shoeing — Mistakes  Pointed 
Out — Fitting  the  Shoe  to  the  Foot — Contracted  Feet — 
Interfering  and  Striking — Frequent  Shoeing  Necessary. 

Proper  treatment  of  the  foot  is  one  of  the  principal  requisites 
in  the  care  of  horses.  Ignorant  blacksmiths  damage  more 
horses  than  they  benefit  by  the  close 
paring  of  the  hoof  at  heel  and  sole, 
and  rasping  of  the  walls.  "  Take 
care  of  the  shuck  and  the  middle 
will  take  care  of  itself."  This 
statement,  made  recently  by  one 
of  the  best  shoers  I  have  ever 
known,  is  the  terse  expression  of 

a  great  truth.  It  is  his  custom  to  put  on  the  shoes  cold. 
after  carefully  fitting  them  to  the  hoof,  which  is  rasped  level 
or  pared  as  little  as  possible.  He  does  not  "  clean  up  the 
frog,"  "open  the  heels,"  rasp  off  the  walls,  thin  the  sole, 
nor  in  any  way  disturb  himself  to  circumvent  nature's  efforts 
to  protect  that  sensitive  and  beautiful  creation — the  horse's 
foot — so  wonderfully  hung,  adjusted  and  boxed. 

The  horse  with  contracted  heels !  what  a  bugbear  he  is, 
and  how  the  average  bungler  loves  to  get  hold  of  him  and 
display  his  wisdom  and  ability  (?) .  Contracted  feet  are  pro- 
duced by  artificial  conditions  and  faulty  shoeing.  The  great 


98  SHOEING. 

majority  of  horses  thus  afflicted,  if  allowed  to  go  bare  for  a 
year  or  more,  would  have  the  defect  remedied  by  that 
greatest  of  veterinarians — nature.  The  time  to  pull  off 
the  shoes  and  be  sure  the  hoofs  will  not  break  up  at  the 
edges  and  allow  the  feet  to  become  tender,  is  in  the  spring, 
as  soon  as  the  frost  begins  to  come  out  of  the  ground. 

Animals  that  have  never  been  brought  to  the  forge  have 
feet  well  fitted  by  nature  for  hard  usage,  which  are  in  them- 
selves proof  of  man's  folly  in  blindly  following  customs. 

Where  shoeing  is  a  positive  necessity,  preparation  of  the 
hoof  is  of  great  importance.  Closely  observe  the  unshod 
foot  when  it  comes  to  the  ground.  Every  part  of  its  surface 
sustains  a  portion  of  the  weight  and  wear.  The  frog,  which 
appears  to  recede  from  the  level  of  the  foot  when  held  in 
the  hand,  settles  down  so  that  it  also  bears  upon  the  earth. 
When  we  put  on  the  shoe,  the  weight  is  seen  to  be  sus- 
pended in  the  foot,  especially  when  calks  are  allowed. 
The  frog  is  merely  pushed  down.  The  sole,  frequently 
pared  out  by  the  merciless  smith,  has  no  opportunity  for 
usefulness,  and  the  wall  of  the  hoof,  besides  being  forced 
to  drag  along  the  iron  thus  nailedr  to  it,  sustains  upon  its 
edge  the  entire  weight  of  the  animal,  besides  bearing  the 
friction  within. 

When  shoeing  the  colt  for  the  first  time,  no  preparation  is 
required  for  a  shoe  further  than  slightly  leveling  with  the 
rasp  the  ground  surface  of  the  wall.  Horses  constantly 
shod  will  be  found  to  have  a  crust  of  horn  near  the  toe. 
Wear  at  that  point  is  prevented  by  the  immovable  shoe,  which, 
at  the  heels,  always  has  slight  play,  because  not  nailed,  and 
the  growth  is  retarded  or  worn  down.  The  fact  that  an 
iron  casing  does  not  permit  a  normal  wearing  of  the 
foot's  surface,  forces  the  horse  to  submit  to  this  damaging 
condition  of  affairs,  unless  he  is  handled  at  all  times 


SHOEING.  99 

with  intelligence.  For  when  the  foot  has  got  out  of  the 
proper  level,  a  serious  danger  is  imminent.  Increase  of 
horn  at  the  toe  throws  the  pastern  into  an  oblique  posi- 
tion, and  undue  weight  upon  the  tendons  and  ligaments  at 
the  back  of  the  foot  strains  them. 

Heels  that  are  too  high  throw  improper  violence  upon  the 
bones  and  joints  of  the  extremities,  much  as  would  be  the 
case  in  man  were  he  forced  to  wear  a  high-heeled  boot  a 
little  too  short  at  the  toe.  But  little  danger  of  this  kind  may 
be  anticipated  in  the  barefooted  horse. 

The  inexperienced  horse  owner  forced  to  submit  to  the 
work  of  an  incompetent  farrier  may  secure  sufficient  accuracy 
of  level  by  insisting  that  the  surface  of  the  wall  or  outer 
crust  of  horn  be  brought  to  a  level  with  the  firm,  unpared 
sole.  The  sole  requires  no  reduction  whatever,  and  owners 
of  horses  who  permit  it  to  be  gouged  and  carved  are  sub- 
mitting themselves  as  well  as  their  property  to  an  injury 
which,  in  some  cases,  will  be  forever  without  remedy. 
Nature  provides  in  her  own  way  for  any  excess  of  growth  of 
frog  and  sole.  Those  who  thin  the  sole  with  the  avowed 
purpose  of  giving  it  greater  elasticity,  overlook  the  fact  that 
they  are  removing  its  natural  defense  against  injury  and  dis- 
ease, a  defense  which  no  substitute  can  make  good. 

Having  been  prepared,  preparation  of  the  shoe  is  next  in 
order,  and  it  should  be  made  to  conform  to  the  foot.  Who- 
ever is  not  sufficient  master  of  the  hammer  to  fit  the  iron  to  the 
foot  instead  of  burning  the  foot  into  the  shape  of  the  iron, 
should  not  be  permitted  to  handle  horses'  feet.  The  best  of 
nails  should  be  used,  and  three  nails  well  set  on  a  side  are 
usually  as  good  as  four.  The  use  of  thin  plates  during  eight 
or  ten  months  of  the  year  is  preferable  to  thick  shoes  with 
heavy  calks,  except  upon  the  feet  of  horses  forced  to  travel 
slippery  pavements  and  haul  great  loads. 


Another  fault  is  fitting  the  foot  to  the  shoe,  frequently 
using  a  shoe  that  is  too  small  and  rasping  down  the  foot  to  fit 
it.  This  is  a  diabolical  practice,  fatal  to  the  last  degree  to 
the  life  of  the  foot.  The  rasp  should  have  no  place  in  a 
farrier's  kit,  unless  it  be  for  leveling  the  walls.  The  weight 
of  the  horse  should  be  borne  upon  the  walls,  whose  edges 
should  rest  upon  the  shoe.  If  these  walls  be  rasped  away, 
and  the  weight  thrown  upon  the  sole,  and  the  outer  covering 
of  the  foot  destroyed  so  it  will  dry  up  and  soon  become  in- 
capable of  holding  the  nails,  what  can  be  expected  of  the  foot? 

An  excellent  plan  for  helping  horses  with  contracted  feet 
is  followed  by  a  New  England  farrier  with  most  beneficial 
results.  It  is  to  level  the  upper  surface  of  the  shoe  at  the 
heel  before  attaching  it  to  the  foot,  the  inner  circle  to  be  one- 
sixteenth  to  one-fourth  of  an  inch  higher  than  the  outer 
circle.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  walls  of  the  foot  rest  thus 
upon  a  surface  which  tends  to  spread  them  constantly.  As 
a  result  of  this  continued  relaxed  condition  at  the  heel,  the 
frog  is  encouraged  to  grow,  the  bars  to  develop,  and  in  a 
few  months  the  heel  is  seen  to  be  changing  its  condition 
materially.  His  unalterable  rule  is,  "  Never  use  the  knife 
to  open  the  heel." 

Horses  compelled  to  wear  shoes  should  have  them  reset 
as  often  as  every  three  to  four  weeks,  not  alone  for  the  com- 
fort of  the  horse,  but  that  his  feet  and  general  constitution 
may  remain  uninjured.  Insist  upon  small  nails  being  used, 
and  as  few  of  these  as  possible.  The  holes  for  the  nails  I 
should  not  be  made  too  near  the  edge  of  the  shoe.  If 
punched  further  from  the  edge  they  take  thicker  and  lower 
hold  of  the  walls  of  the  hoof,  and  do  not  need  to  be  driven 
so  high  as  to  approach  the  sensitive  part  of  the  foot.  With 
a  perfectly  level  bearing,  three  nails  on  either  side  will  hold 
the  shoe  firmly.  With  uneven  fitting,  however,  the  shoe 


102  SHOEING. 

soon  works  loose.  When  the  shoe  has  been  fitted  and  the 
nails  clinched,  insist  that  rasping,  painting  or  oiling  the  foot 
to  improve  its  appearance  or  make  a  neat  job  be  left  un- 
done. In  its  natural  state  the  entire  hoof  is  kept  covered  by  a 
secretion  which  cannot  be  improved  upon  by  man,  and  which 
preserves  the  moisture  of  the  foot.  To  destroy  this  by  mixing 
with  it  some  foreign  compound,  or  to  cut  off  the  minute  tubes 
which  constitute  the  shell  of  the  foot,  is  the  worst  of  folly. 

Interfering  may  be  prevented  at  times  by  proper  shoeing. 
The  outside  of  the  heel  and  quarter  of  the  foot  on  the  in- 
jured leg  should  be  lowered  slightly  to  change  the  relative 
position  of  the  fetlock  joint,  thus  carrying  it  in  such  a  posi- 
tion that  its  mate  may  pass  without  striking  it.  A  very 
slight  change  will  produce  this  result  frequently.  The 
offending  foot  should  be  shod  so  that  the  shoe,  and  especially 
the  responsible  point,  is  well  under  the  hoof,  and  the  shoe 
should  be  reset  every  three  or  four  weeks.  Frequent  wet- 
ting of  the  injured  parts  with  cold  water  or  salt  and  water 
will  remove  the  soreness  and  swelling  unless  the  part  is 
badly  calloused.  A  Spanish  fly  blister  may  then  be  neces- 
sary to  reduce  the  leg  to  its  naturaf  condition,  and  may  need 
to  be  repeated  in  two  or  three  weeks. 

When  a  horse  is  in  the  habit  of  forging  or  striking  his 
hind  feet  against  his  fore  ones,  careful  attention  should  be 
given  to  the  shoeing.  It  is  due  to  quick  action  behind  and 
slow  action  in  front.  Shorten  the  toes  of  the  fore  feet  and 
put  on  light,  nicely  fitted  and  turned  up  shoes.  Do  the 
same  with  the  hind  feet,  but  put  on  shoes  somewhat  heavier 
than  the  fore  ones.  By  this  arrangement  the  horse  will  pick 
up  his  fore  feet  quicker  and  the  hind  feet  slower,  thus  ac- 
complishing just  what  is  wanted.  If  a  quarter  of  a  second 
of  time  is  thereby  gained  the  fore  foot  will  be  clear  out  of 
the  way  of  the  hind  foot. 


MAXIMS. 


Most  horses  when  tethered  bv  a  -/ope  will  injure  them- 
selves by  sawing  the  rope  against  the  groove  above  the  hoof 
behind.  To  remedy  this  trouble,  tie  in  a  piece  four  feet 
long  of  stout  canvas,  making  a  soft  roll  in  place  of  the 
rope. 

Jf  you  spoil  your  colt — what  about  the  horse  ? 

If  you  caress  your  horse  it  will  make  it  feel  as  happy  as  a 
woman  experiencing  the  same  sensation. 

You,  do  not  gain  the  confidence  of  your  horse  by  whipping 
him.  More  flesh  can  be  whipped  off  a  horse  in  one  day  than 
can  be  fed  on  in  a  week. 

Rear  your  own  horses.  It  will  not  pay  to  sell  farm  prod- 
-itcts  at  a  cent  a  pound,  and  pay  for  horses  with  this  money 
at  fifteen  or  twenty  cents  a  bound. 


104 


MAXIMS. 


The  scrub  horse  has  a  mission.  He  is  needed  by  men  w/n 
think  it  is  necessary  to  jerk  on  the  lines  every  time  they  want 
to  turn,  and  kirk  the  horse  when  they  want  him  to  sfana 
over. 

Unsoundness  and  carelessness  are  twins. 

Animals  are  such  agreeable  friends — they  ask  no  ques- 
tions,  pass  no  criticisms. 

Morally,  the  horse  is  better  than  any  human  he  ing  that 
ever  lived. 

Screens  at  the  stable  doors  an v/  windows  save  bushels  of 
feed. 


SOUND    AND    STRONG    ALL    THROUGH. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


A     WORD  FROM  HARRIET. 

Making  the  Horse  Happy — A  Cheerful  Animal  the  Most 
Useful — Importance  of  Gentleness — The  Horse's  Good 
Qualities  Pointed  Out — The  Docked  Horse. 

Of  food  and  drink  give  me  the  best, 
From  brutal  treatment  keep  me  free  ; 

(lii'e  me  when  tired  a  little  rest. 
And  see  how  useful  /  can  be. 

People  ought  to  try  to  make  their  horses  happy.   A  happy, 
cheerful  horse  will  do  more  work  and  live  longer,  and  thus 
be  more  profitable  to  its  owner,  than  one   whose  temper  is 
kept  constantly  ruffled,  whose 
disposition     is    soured  by  ill- 
usage,    and  whose  peace     of 
mind  is  often  disturbed  by  the 
crack  of  the  whip,  the  hoarse 
voice  of  the  driver,  the  strain 
of  overwork,    the    discomfort 
of  a  hard  bed,  or  the  pangs  of 
hunger    and  thirst.       If    one 
would   have   a   good,    willing 
and  useful  horse,  let  him  treat 
him  so  that  he  will  be  cheerful  and  happy. 

There  are  many  ways  by  which  this  result  can  be  brought 
about.      Gentle    treatment    is,    of  course,    one    of  the   most 


HOb  A   WORD    FROM    HARRIET. 

effective.  Never  strike  a  horse  in  anger;  never  growl  a 
him,  never  jerk  the  bridle  nor  lines,  so  as  to  hurt  his  mouth; 
never  whip  him,  at  least  never  severely  whip  him,  and  be 
sure  that  you  do  not  keep  him  in  constant  terror  or  expectancy 
of  a  blow  from  the  whip.  How  can  a  horse  possess  a  cheer- 
ful mind  if  he  be  always  on  the  lookout  for  a  cut  across  the 
back,  over  the  sides  or  around  the  legs  !  Indeed,  he  will 
waste  a  vast  amount  of  energy  and  nervous  force  every  day 
if  kept  in  a  state  of  suspense,  occasioned  by  a  free  and  reck- 
less use  of  the  lash.  If  any  one  doubts  it,  let  him  try  such 
treatment  upon  himself. 

A  horse  ought  to  be  talked  to  a  good  deal,  lie  under- 
stands what  is  said  to  him  very  well.  An  intelligent  horse 
knows  more  than  a  stupid,  uncultured 
man.  He  is  a  good  deal  better  company. 
He  is  cleaner,  as  a  rule,  and  gives  no 
countenance  to  vulgarity  or  profanity.  He 
is  more  self-respecting.  He  is  less  given 
to  bad  habits.  He  could  not  be  induced 
to  chew  nor  smoke  tobacco  nor  drink  beer. 

UNHAPPY  HORSE.     Whatever  he  do*s  he  does  frankly,   with  a 

clear  conscience  ;  yet  how  often  his  master,  who  rates  him- 
self his  superior,  will  violate  his  conscience  and  do  things 
he  knows  are  wrong. 

A  horse  is  moderate  in  the  indulgence  of  his  appetites. 
When  he  gets  enough  to  drink  he  stops  drinking  ;  when  he 
cats  enough  he  quits  eating.  He  is  not  a  glutton.  He  is  not 
quarrelsome  unless  made  so  by  bad  usage.  He  harbors  no 
animosity.  He  is  at  peace  with  all  the  world.  He  is  gentle; 
he  is  forgiving;  he  is  faithful  when  other  friends  fail.  He  is 
contented  ;  the  vain  ambitions  of  the  world,  its  discontent 
and  its  strivings  after  the  forbidden  or  the  unattainable,  are 
never  his.  Therefore,  though  often  rated  by  the  unthinking 


A    WORD    FROM    HARRIET.  IQJ 

as  inferior  to  man,  yet  he  is  in  many  respects  vastly  superior 
to  the  cross-grained,  profane,  brutal,  vulgar  and  ignorant 
men  into  whose  ownership  he  oftentimes  falls. 

The  stalls  should  be  cleaned  out  every  morning  (and  even- 
ing also  if  occupied  through  the  day),  and  a  nice,  soft,  clean 
bed  made  for  the  animal  to  rest  upon.  Many  horses  are  in- 
jured in  their  feet  and  legs  by  having  to  stand  upon  a  great 
pile  of  manure,  from  which  the  ammonia  arises,  for  weeks 
and  months.  The  ammonia  is  also  injurious  to  the  eyes,  to 
say  nothing  of  the  harness. 

Xo  colt  will  acquire  bad  habits  of  any  kind  if  brought  up 
right.  If  a  fault  be  discovered,  as  it  should  be,  in  the  be- 
ginning, it  can  easily  be  corrected.  Overlooked  and  allowed 
to  run  on  for  a  time,  it  is  then  hard  to  eradicate.  The  owner 
of  a  balky  horse,  for  instance,  has  only  himself  to  blame. 
Gentle  treatment,  kind  words,  an  apple,  a  wisp  of  hay  and 
a  little  patience,  will  move  any  but  an  old  and  confirmed 
balker.  Those  who  happen  to  own  one  of  the  latter  will 
often  find  a  small  bottle  of  ether  effective  in  changing  the 
current  of  the  horse's  mind  and  inducing  him  to  draw  the 
load.  Only  in  rare  cases  has  it  ever  failed. 

The  women  folks  should  become  interested  in  the  welfare 
of  the  horse,  Go  often  to  the  stable  and  talk  to  them  and 
pet  them.  Pat  them  on  the  nose,  give  them  the  apple  skins, 
and  occasionally  a  fair,  sound  apple  or  potato.  They  will 
soon  become  acquainted  with  you  and  learn  to  listen  for  your 
footsteps  and  to  love  you.  Possibly  they  may  develop  as 
much  real  affection  towards  you  as  you  can  find  elsewhere 
about  the  premises  ;  if  so  this  is  a  clear  gain.  If  you  have 
courage  go  into  the  stall  with  them ;  curry  them,  bridle  or 
harness  them  when  necessary  ;  teach  them  to  serve  you, 
which,  if  you  are  kind  to  them,  they  will  be  glad 
to  do. 


108  A   WORD    FROM    HARRIET. 

He  was  a  beautiful  horse  in  his  youth.  His  long  tail 
added  much  to  his  beauty,  and  was  a  sure  defense  against 
tormenting  flies.  A  rich  man  in  the  city  bought  him  to 
match  another  horse,  and  the  two  were  attached  to  the 
family  carriage. 

The  tail  was  cut  off,  because,  strangely  enough,  the  bob- 
tail, cut  square,  was  more  pleasing  to  the  owner  than  the 
tail  given  by  nature.  That  was  the  reason  why  the  tail  was 
docked,  but  the  owner  excused  the  docking  by  saying  that 
the  horse  would  hold  the  rein  under  the  tail  and  thus  im- 
peril the  lives  of  those  who  rode. 

The  horse  did  not  at  first  miss  his  tail  brush,  for  he  was  a 
rich  man's  horse  and  wore  a  net  in  summer;  he  was  care- 
fully groomed  and  kept  in  good  condition.  But  occasionally 
his  owner  drove  the  horse  to  his  box  buggy,  and,  as  he  was 
a  hard  driver,  he  was  overdriven,  spoiled,  and  of  course  sold. 

The  horse  then  came  into  the  possession  of  a  grocer  who 
had  some  compassion  and  provided  a  net  to  keep  off  the 
flies.  But  at  length  the  horse  becomes  too  slow  for  the 
grocer,  and  then  began  the  downward  road  that  ends  always 
in  misery  and  torture. 

Last  summer  this  horse  was  seen  attached  to  a  fruit 
hawker's  dilapidated  wagon.  It  was  a  hot  day,  and  the 
horse  was  standing  in  front  of  a  fruit  store  while  the  owner 
was  within  buying  his  stock  in  trade.  A  more  pitiable  horse- 
sight  was  never  seen.  The  flies  swarmed  around  him  and 
drove  him  nearly  frantic;  he  twisted,  kicked,  turned  and 
bit  himself  till  the  blood  had  started.  There  was  a  fresh 
bruise  on  one  hip  on  which  the  flies  settled,  the  short  hair 
of  the  tail  was  not  long  enough  to  reach  this,  and  he  was 
robbed  of  all  defense. 

The  horse  was  little  more  than  skin  and  bone,  but  he  may 
have  had  food  enough.  His  condition  might  be  due  to  this 


A   WORD   FROM   HARRIET.  109 

continual  worry  and  fighting  of  flies.  If  the  man  who 
caused  the  tail  to  be  docked  could  have  seen  the  horse  in 
his  present  condition  he  would  have  regretted  the  part  he 
took  in  it,  if  he  had  any  feeling  of  compassion.  Let  every 
man  remember  who  cuts  off  a  horse's  tail,  cuts  off  not  only 
the  hair,  but  also  the  stump  of  the  tail,  that  another  stump 
will  not  grow  in  its  place,  and  that  the  horse  will  be  prac- 
tically tailless  the  rest  of  his  life.  Horses  were  given  tails 
because  they  need  them,  and  it  ought  to  be  a  crime,  punish- 
able by  law,  to  mutilate  a  horse  at  the  command  of  a  soul- 
less god -fashion. 


TRY   THIS,    AND    SEE    HOW   YOU    LIKE   IT. 


COLT    PHILOSOPHY. 

HARRIET  BIGGLE  says: 

A  poor  halter  will  often  spoil  a  colt. 
The  time  to  train  a  colt  is  all  along. 

Give  the  young  horses  sunshine.  They  need  it  as  much  a± 
they  do  pure  air  and  exercise. 

Make  the  tittle  foal  gentle  ;  sugar  will  do  it,  and  kind 
words. 

The  teased  colt  often  makes  the  vicious  horse. 

Teach  the  colt  one  thing  at  a  time.  When  he  has  learned 
something  don't  let  him  forget  it.  \frfake  him  go  over  it 
again  and  again.  In  days  following  repeat  it. 

Make  friends  right  off  with  the  colts.  Have  some  apples 
or  something  in  your  pocket  for  them,  and  they  will  soon 
come  to  feel  that  you  are  a  friend.  A  horse  loves  a  friend 
and  hates  an  enemy. 

Don't  call  a  colt  by  a  name  that  is  too  much  like  "whoa" 
or  "get  up.'"  "Joe"  for  instance,  is  hard  for  him  to  distin- 
guish from  the  order  to  stop.  If  you  call  him  "Jacob"  ht* 
will  always  think  yott  are  ordering  an  advance. 

In  these  days  of  bicycles,  accustom  the  colts  early  to  their 
sudden  or  slow  approach. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

A(iE   OF   A    HORSE. 

How  to  Tell  the  Age  of  a  Horse  by  His  Teeth — The  Age  in 
Verse. 

A  horse's  age  is  determined  accurately  only  by  referring- 
to  his  teeth.      Authorities  differ  somewhat  as  to  the  exact 


<V  \b    0 


condition  of  the  teeth  at  a  stated  age,  and  indeed  all  horses 
have  not  teeth  of  identical  size  and  shape  at  a  similar  age. 


112  AGE   OF   A   HORSE. 


AGE   OF   A    HORSE.  113 

edge  only  worn,  and  corner  teeth  grown  to  an  even  height, 
but  not  worn  much,  and  hooks  grown,  but  not  worn.  At 
six,  the  nippers  on  the  lower  jaw  are  worn  even  and  the 
middle  teeth  have  still  a  cavity.  At  seven,  the  same  jaw 
shows  that  the  middle  teeth  have  become  even,  and  both 
edges  of  corner  teeth  rub,  but  still  retain  a  slight  cavity. 
At  eight,  a  mere  trace  of  the  mark  is  visible  in  the  lower 
corner  teeth.  At  nine,  the  upper  nippers  have  almost  lost 
their  mark,  the  middle  ones  show  a  faint  mark,  and  the 
corner  teeth  have  a  deeper  mark  than  the  middle  ones.  At 
nine,  also,  the  upper  corner  teeth  begin  to  show  a  curve  in 
the  surface.  This  curve  gradually  deepens  as  age  increases. 
At  ten,  the  mark  in  the  middle  upper  teeth  has  changed 
from  oblong  to  nearly  circular,  and  at  eleven,  the  same 
change  is  noticed  in  the  corner  teeth.  At  twelve,  the  lower 
nippers  have  become  nearly  round,  while  they  were  broad 
in  youth  ;  the  middle  teeth  become  so  at  thirteen,  and  the 
corner  ones  at  fourteen.  At  fifteen,  the  upper  nippers  are 
rounded  ;  the  middle  teeth  follow  suit  at  sixteen,  and  the 
corner  teeth  at  seventeen.  When  eighteen,  the  lower  nip- 
pers appear  three-cornered  ;  at  nineteen,  the  middle  ones, 
and  at  twenty,  the  corner  teeth  get  into  style.  At  twenty- 
one,  the  upper  nippers  get  the  three-corner  shape ;  at 
twenty-two,  the  middle,  and  at  twenty-three  the  corner 
teeth  do  likewise.  If  the  teeth  project  unnaturally,  and  are 
very  long,  it  is  more  difficult  to  judge  of  the  age,  as  they 
have  not  worn  down  as  they  grew  out,  hence  the  markings 
deceive.  Such  horses  may  be  suspected,  also,  of  not 
properly  masticating  their  food.  This  is  a  great  defect,  in- 
asmuch as  the  same  amount  of  food  will  do  them  less  good, 
and  encourages  physical  defects  of  serigus  nature,  as  time 
elapses.  Old  horses  and  those  with  weak  powers  of  assimi- 
lation are  expensive  property.  This  is  a  fault  chargeable  to 


114  AGE    OF    A    HORSK. 

young  and  immature  horses  (horses  less  than  five  years  old), 
and  it  renders  them  unfit  for  hard  driving  or  work  of  pro- 
tracted and  severe  character. 


THE  AGE  IN  VERSE. 

Two  middle  "  nippers  "  you  behold 
Before  the  colt  is  two  weeks  old ; 
Before  eight  weeks  two  more  wMl  come  ; 
Eight  months,  the  "  corners  "  cut  the  gum. 

The  outside  grooves  will  disappear 
From  middle  two  in  just  one  year  ; 
In  two  years,  from  the  second  pair ; 
In  three,  the  corners,  too,  are  bare. 

At  two,  the  middle  ' '  nippers  ' '  drop  ; 
At  three,  the  second  pair  can't  stop  ; 
When  four  years  old  the  third  pair  goes  ; 
At  Jive,  a  full  new  set  he  shows. 

*fe 

The  deep  black  spots  will  pass  from  view, 
At  six  years,  from  the  middle  two  ; 
The  second  pair  at  seven  years  ; 
At  eight,  the  spot  each  "  corner  "  clears. 

From  middle  ' '  nippers, ' '  upper  jaw, 
At  nine  the  black  spots  will  withdraw  ; 
The  second  pair  at  ten  are  white  ; 
Eleven  Jinds  the  "  corners"  light. 

As  time  goes  on  the  horsemen  know 
The  oval  teeth  three-sided  grow  ; 
They  longer  get,  project  before 
Till  twenty,  when  we  know  no  more. 


CHAPTER   XV. 

ABOUT   STABLES. 

However  expensive  a  barn  may  b**,  it  can  never  be  suitable 
iot  horses  if  bad  odors  prevail,  as  is  the  case  in  very  many 
stables,  nor  where  dampness  holds  sway.  Horses  are  placed 
with  their  faces  to  high  stone  walls  very  often,  with  no  board 
lining  and  air  space  between  to  carry  off  the  moist  air. 
These  walls  are  wet  in  summer  by  condensing  the  humidity 


GENERAL   WASHINGTON'S   STABLE   AT    MOUNT   VERNON. 

in  the  warm  air,  and  bristle  with  frost  in  winter  from  the  same 
cause.  Avoid  them,  and  keep  horses  out  of  basement  stables 
if  possible.  Indigestion,  influenza  and  rheumatism  are  di- 
rectly traceable  to  such  environments.  Proper  construction, 
ventilation  and  absorbents  make  a  stable  that  is  sweet  for 
horses  and  safe  for  men. 

Wherever  possible  let  the  stable  face  the  south,  and  put 
the  stalls  on  the  sunny  side  of  the  building.  A  well  known 
reformer  once  said:  "  Light  is  one  of  the  best  preventives 
of  crime,"  so  also  sunlight  is  one  of  the  best  preventives 
of  sickness.  No  animal  can  do  well  living  in  the  dark. 
Darkness  or  only  dim  light  injures,  and  is  the  cause  of  much 


II 6  ABOUT    STABLES. 

difficulty  with  driving  horses.  The  sun  is  a  direct  aid  to 
digestion.  Bad  digestion  means  weak  nerves,  a  bad  coat 
and  a  stamina  generally  impaired. 

The  stable  should  be  a  solid  superstructure  upon  an  honest 
foundation.  Crevices  in  the  covering,  floors  and  foundation 
may  be  the  cause  of  colds,  catarrhs  and  stiffness,  besides 
making  an  easy  harboring  place  for  rats. 

Make  the  ceiling  of  the  first  floor  not  less  than  eight  feet 
high.  Any  horse  will  then  be  safe  in  throwing  up  his  head. 

The  doors  which  the  horse  uses  should  be  wide  and  high, 
and  divided  in  the  middle,  so  the  upper  part  may  be  left  open 
if  desired.  They  should  be  at  least  four  feet  wide  and  seven 
feet  high,  so  that  he  may  go  in  and  out  with  ease,  and  run  no 
chance  of  knocking  himself.  Sometimes  a  horse  will  hesi- 
tate when  entering  a  doorway,  and  then  suddenly  rush  in, 
showing  plainly  that  he  is  afraid  to  go  through,  having  hurt 
himself  while  once  doing  so.  Have  plenty  of  windows  and 
at  the  back  or  side  of  the  horse  rather  than  directly  in  front. 
They  should  be  capable  of  being  ogened. 

Opinions  vary  as  to  the  width  of  the  stalls,  some  say  four 
feet,  some  six  feet,  but  five  feet  will  be  found  to  be  a  good 
width.  If  not  boarded  up  all  the  way  to  the  ceiling  they 
should  be  high  enough  so  the  horse  cannot  see  over  nor 
quarrel  with  a  mate.  Four  feet  high  at  the  back  and  seven 
feet  high  at  the  end  towards  the  manger  will  be  about  right. 
They  should  be  at  least  nine  feet  long  for  the  average-sized 
horse.  Make  the  divisions  of  two  thicknesses  of  two-inch 
plank,  breaking  joints.  Loose  box-stalls  should  be  not  less 
than  ten  feet  square. 

No  stable  should  be  fitted  with  stalls  so  close  to  the  siding 
that  it  is  troublesome  to  back  out  horses.  Such  close  quar- 
ters are  hard  to  clean  properly  and  are  always  unpleasant  for 
handling  horses,  while  the  room  saved  is  trifling.  Fourteen 


ABOUT    STABLES.  117 

feet  is  the  least  that  should  be  given  from  the  manger  to  the 
wall  at  the  back.  Fifteen  or  sixteen  feet  would  be  still  better. 

Have  the  feed-bins  and  watering-troughs  arranged  so  that 
they  will  be  handy  and  save  steps.  It  will  pay  to  line  the 
bins  with  tin  to  keep  out  the  rats  and  mice. 

If  you  cannot  afford  to  cement  the  stable  floor  fill  it  in 
with  clay,  and  ram  it  hard  and  smooth.  Here  is  how  to  lay 


a  cement  floor — and  have  one  by  all  means  if  you  can.  Dig 
out  the  earth  eighteen  inches  deep  and  fill  in  with  the  stones 
to  within  six  inches  of  the  surface  where  the  horse's  feet 
would  be.  Next  ram  down  hard  three  inches  of  concrete 
made  of  cement  one  part  (Portland  cement  preferred),  clean 
sharp  sand  three  parts,  and  screened  gravel  six  parts.  Wet 
the  gravel  well  and  mix  in  the  sand  and  cement  thoroughly. 
The  mass  must  be  sprinkled  until  it  will  retain  any  shape  it 
is  pressed  into.  The  surface  coat  is  an  inch  thick,  put  on 
before  the  first  coat  of  concrete  sets.  It  is  made  of  three 
parts  sharp  sand  and  one  part  cement.  This  is  spread 
smoothly,  and  must  not  be  disturbed  till  the  entire  floor  is 
set  hard  like  a  block  of  granite.  To  induce  it  to  dry  slowly, 
and  so  prevent  cracking,  it  may  be  covered  with  a  thin  layer 
of  straw  and  sprinkled  occasionally.  If  the  hardening  pro- 
cess takes  two  or  three  weeks,  so  much  the  better.  The 
whole  surface  must  slope  gently  from  the  manger,  say  at  the 
rate  of  one  inch  to  three  feet.  This  will  carry  the  urine 
back  so  the  horse  will  not  get  soiled  nor  be  otherwise  injured 


Il8  ABOUT    STABLES. 

by  it — as,  for  instance,  the  injury  to  his  eyes  from  the  ammonia 
it  often  generates. 

But  the  horse  must  not  stand  on  this  concrete  else  his  feet 
will  spoil  it  as  he  stamps  at  flies.  A  plank  rack  must  cover 
it  for  a  stamping  surface.  This  is  made  of  two-inch  stuff, 
sawed  four  inches  wide  and  laid  three-quarters-of-an-inch 
apart  on  cleats.  The  rear  cleat  should  be  enough  thicker 
than  the  front  one  to  level  up  the  floor.  A  level  floor  is 
necessary  for  the  health  of  the  horse's  feet.  Filth  will 
collect  between  the  slats  of  the  floor,  and  must  be  cleaned 
out  daily  by  the  use  of  an  iron  or  hook  as  thick  as  the  spaces 
between  the  planks.  The  square  and  spirit  level  will  be 
needed  to  make  the  floor  a  good  one.  It  will  save  bedding 
and  run  off  the  urine  into  the  manure  vault  or  sewer.  A 
bare  cobble  floor  is  not  a  satisfactory  one  for  the  horse,  because 
so  rough,  hard  and  uneven  ;  for  the  owner,  because  so  hard 
on  the  horse's  feet  and  so  difficult  to  keep  clean.  In  the 
engraving  showing  the  stone  and  cement  floor :  I  represents 
the  space  filled  with  cobbles ;  2,  th%  grouting  of  gravel  and 
cement;  3,  the  inch  of  fine  surface  ;  4,  the  thick  rear  cleat; 
5,  plank  slats  for  the  horse's  feet.  The  foundation  is  placed 
thus  deeply  to  avoid  the  action  of  frost. 

Mangers  should  be  made  of  the  best  seasoned  oak,  and  so 
tightly  that  they  will  hold  water.  An  inch  auger-hole  with 
a  cork  at  its  lowest  point  should  permit  water  to  be  drained 
off  in  case  of  accidental  spilling  of  a  pail  there.  Mangers 
for  horses  inclined  to  gnaw  should  be  protected  upon  the 
edges  by  sheet  iron  or  wire  net  held  in  place  by  nails  or 
staples.  But  this  protection  is  as  objectionable  as  iron  man- 
gers during  freezing  weather,  as  it  freezes  to  the  tongue  and 
lips  of  the  horse,  skinning  them.  A  broad  surface  like  the 
bottom  of  the  entire  manger  is  better  to  feed  grain  in  for 
most  horses  than  a  deep,  narrow  feed-box,  as  it  prevents 


ABOUT    STABLES. 


gorging  and  bolting  of  the  food  too  quickly  eaten.  Induce 
horses  to  eat  slowly  for  best  returns  from  food.  For  a  good 
grain-chute  see  the  chapter  on  Feeding  and  Watering. 

It  is  a  poor  plan  to  have  the  rack  for  hay  up  over  the 
feeding  manger  as  shown 
in  the  accompanying  illus- 
tration. In  this  way  the 
dust  and  dirt  in  the  hay 
or  fodder  falls  through  the 
slats  down  into  the  feed- 
ing-trough. Then  too  the 
horse  has  to  reach  up,  as  if 
he  were  a  giraffe — an  entirely  unnatural  position  for  him. 
When  feeding  naturally  he  has  his  head  to  the  ground. 

If  the  manger  is  divided  into  two  parts,  one  for  the  grain 
and  another  for  the  hay,  have  the  latter  extend  to  within  a 
foot  of  the  ground  and  the  bottom  closed  by  slats  six  inches 
apart.  The  dust  and  dirt  will  fall  through  and  can  be 
cleaned  away,  with  the  bedding,  without  trouble. 

If  the  hay  is  thrown  down  a  chute  into  the  entry,  and  then 
forked  into  the  manger,  never  use  any- 
thing but  a  fork  with  wooden  prongs  like 
that  shown  in  the  illustration. 

The  illustration  represents  a  sensible 
arrangement  in  the  stall  for  feeding  hay.  It  is  thrown  into 
the  chute  from  the  mow  above,  and  the  horse 
pulls  it  out  at  the  bottom  where  there  are  iron 
bars.  He  will  usually  pull  out  only  what 
he  eats.  Make  the  chute  gradually  larger 
at  the  bottom  than  at  the  top,  so  that  the 
hay  will  not  lodge  in  it. 

Given  a  good  building,  it  must  be  so  ven- 
tilated that  while  fresh  air  is  kept  abundant  no  drafts  are 


ABOUT   STABLES. 


permitted.     Ventilators  that  reach  to  within  twelve  inches  of 

the  floor  and  extend  through  the  roof  will  regulate  this. 
The   accompanying  illustration   shows  a  convenient  and 

easily  made  ventilator  for  barn  or  stable.  It  is  a  square  box 
X  X  N>  reaching  from  near  the  floor  up  and  out  through 
the  roof.  The  bottom  is  open,  but  closes  with  a 
slide.  Near  the  ceiling  is  a  hinged  door  con- 
trolled by  a  cord,  as  shown.  In  warm  weather 
this  upper  door  can  be  opened  to  let  out  the 
heated  air,  which  always  rises.  In  cold  weather 
this  door  can  be  closed,  and  the  slide  at  the 

bottom  opened  to  remove   the  foul   gases  that,  from  their 

greater  weight  than   air,  sink  to  the   floor.      The  draft  up 

through  this  ventilator  will  remove  them. 

Too  often  the  chutes  which  bring  down  hay  and  oats  are 

the   only  ventilation    in    a  stable.     They 

may  be  a  source  of  much  discomfort  if  not 

danger  to  the  horse.     Such  chutes  should 

be  fitted  with  cross  boards  for  sliding  in, 

to  close  them  tightly  at  top  or  bottom  to 

stop  air  currents. 

Hay  or  straw  chutes  may  well  serve  as 

ventilators  if  they  .be  closed  always,  where 

the  hay  is  put  in  directly  after  using,  and 

if  they  are  carried  up  to  the  roof.     A  ven- 
tilator so  arranged  is  here  illustrated.    The 

bottom  should  be  two  feet  from  the  entry 

floor.     It  contains  near  the  stable  ceiling 

a  hinged  door,  opened  and  shut  by  a  cord, 

and  near  the  top  of  the  building  a  damper 

to   close   in    case   of   high   winds.      The 

damper  is  shown  closed,  as  for  a  night  of 

high  winds.     To  open  it  pull  the  cord  and  wind  it  about  the 


ABOUT    STABLES.  121 

cleat  shown.  The  damper  is  made  of  a  board  just  the  size 
of  the  inside  of  the  ventilator.  It  is  kept  from  falling  down 
the  ventilator  by  resting  upon  a  cleat  at  one  side  and  the 
damper  rod  at  the  other.  It  is  not  balanced,  and  its  own 
weight  causes  it  to  fall  across  and  close  the  shaft  when  the 
cord  is  loosened.  The  feed-door  shown  open  must  be  tight 
when  closed  after  throwing  in  hay.  There  should  be  several 
of  these  doors  in  the  ventilator  at  different  heights. 

For  controlling  odors  in  the  stable  nothing  equals  fine  road 
dust.  Its  absorptive  quality  is  surprising.  Never  use  lime 
nor  ashes.  They  only  set  the  ammonia  free  as  an  annoying 
and  destroying  gas  to  act  upon  the  eyes  of  the  horse,  spoil 
the  carriage  varnish,  and  rot  the  harness. 

The  necessity  for  a  harness  closet,  and  an  illustration  of 
one,  has  already  been  given  on  page  56.  Another  great  con- 
venience about  the  stable  is  the  wash -pave,  where  the  carriage 
may  be  washed  without  getting  it  splashed  with  mud  while 
doing  it,  or  at  the  same  time  get  your  feet  muddy.  It  should 
be  somewhat  larger  on  all  sides  than  the  carriage,  and  should 
be  depressed  towards  the  centre,  with  a  gutter  to  run  the 
water  off.  It  may  be  made  of  flat  flagging  stones,  bricks  or 
concrete.  Have  it  in  a  sheltered  sunny  place  if  possible, 
and  the  carriage  will  get  washed  on  many  winter  days  when 
otherwise  it  would  not  be  done. 

There  is  another  chief  stable  necessity — pure  water.  Be 
sure  it  is  pure.  Impure  water  dulls  the  lustre  of  coat  and 
eye,  and  numbs  the  action  and  other  faculties,  gradually  poi- 
soning the  system  and  lessening  the  value  of  the  horse,  or 
destroying  him  if  its  use  be  continued.  A  stable  or  yard 
draining  into  or  soaking  through  the  soil  to  a  barn  well 
makes  water  impure,  dangerous.  If  the  purity  be  questioned, 
send  a  sample  quart  to  the  chemist  of  your  State  experiment 
station  to  be  analvzed. 


ABOUT    STABLES. 


B/IR|N  DOOR    /] 

JLJ 

FIG.    I. 


A  home-made  device  for  locking  rolling  stable  doors  which 
requires  no  key,  and  yet  which  is  securely  fastened,  is  shown 
in  Figure  I.  Have  a  string  go  through  the  wall  to  raise  the 
catch  on  the  inside. 

A  very  simple  and  cheap  home- 
made latch  for  the  barn  door  is 
shown  in  Figure  2.  A,  B  and  c  are 
sticks  of  hard  wood  two  inches 
square.  In  A  and  B  are  cut  notches 
at  D  and  E  an  inch  deep  for  the 
bolt  c  to  slide  in.  The  bolt  is  also 
cut  down,  as  shown  in  the  drawing,  sufficiently  to  allow  it  to 
work  freely  even  in  damp  weather.  Screw  the  pieces  A  and  B 
to  the  inside  of  the  door.  Bevel  the  end  of  the  bolt  c  at  H 
at  such  an  angle  that  when  the  door 
shuts,  and  the  bolt  strikes  the  jamb  j 
the  bolt  will  be  pushed  back  and  fall 
into  the  slot  in  the  jamb  by  its  own 
weight.  Put  a  strong  pin  in  the  hole 
of  the  bolt  at  K,  and  make  a  slot  in  the 
door  for  this  pin  to  work  in.  Keep 
the  bearings  well  greased.  FIG.  2. 

Perhaps  a  better  bolt,  but  one  a  little  harder  to  make,  is 
shown  in  Figure  3.  In  it  A  is  a  spring  made  of  hickory  or 
oak  and  set  into  the  end  of  the  bolt  B.  At  c  is  a 
flat  strip  of  wood,  which  goes  through  the  bolt 
1  and  through  a  slot  in  the  door  to  open  it  from  the 
other  side.  The  bolt  is  beveled  at  the  end  so  that 
it  will  slide  back,  and  the  spring  will  throw  it  into 
place  every  time,  no  matter  how  hard  the  door  may 
be  slammed.  A  pin  at  D  will  prevent  the  bolt 
FIG.  3.  going  too  far.  If  your  barn  doors  are  cut  through 
at  the  middle,  as  they  should  be,  the  hickory  spring  A  could 


ABOUT   STABLES.  123 

be  continued  up  above  the  top  of  the  lower  door  and  the  pin 
c  dispensed  with.  This  is  a  good  arrangement  where  chil- 
dren are  around.  While  they  can  push  back  the  pin  and  open 
the  door,  they  are  not  able  to  reach  to  the  top  of  the  door 
and  push  back  the  spring. 

Have  a  place  for  everything,  and,  what  is  of  more  impor- 
tance, see  that  everything  is  put  in  its  place.  Neat  and 
convenient  hooks  for  the  stable  tools  and 
brushes  will  save  time  and  temper,  aside 
from  keeping  everything  orderly  about 
the  stable.  The  little  illustration  speaks 
for  itself. 

Herewith  are  given  the  ground  plans 
and  elevations  of  three  different  stables, 
in  which  those  contemplating  building  or 
altering  may  find  some  helpful  hints  even 
if  the  plan  is  not  adopted  in  full.  The  stables  may  be  con- 
structed of  whatever  material  the  builder  may  desire,  and  as 
the  localities  in  which  this  book  will  be  read  are  so  widely 
separated,  and  the  price  of  materials  consequently  so  variable, 
it  is  impossible  to  give  any  accurate  estimate  of  their  cost. 
For  the  reason  that  we  have  not  room  to  give  the  plans  of 
large  general -purpose  barns,  the  plans  given  are  those  of 
stables  alone;  but  the  arrangement  or  suggestions  in  the 
drawings  may  well  be  followed  in  planning  quarters  for 
horses  in  large  barns. 

There  are  many  people  living  on  small  lots  and  in  villages 
who  need  stable  room  for  only  one  horse  and  perhaps  a  cow. 
The  stable  here  shown  is  an  excellent  one.  The  framework 
of  the  whole  is  1 8  by  25  feet.  The  carriage  room  is  9  by  1 8. 
A  foot  or  two  more  in  its  width  would  not  be  amiss  and 
would  then  give  space  for  the  carriage,  sleigh,  lawn-mower, 
etc.,  besides  room  for  unhitching  in  stormy  weather  and  for 


124 


ABOUT    STABLES. 


cleaning  harness.     By  the  way,  the  harness  should  be  hung 
up  on  pins  in  this  room,  away  from  the  ammonia  generated  in 


ELEVATION    SHOWING   SMALL   VILLAGE   STABLE. 

the  stable.     The  horse,  as  will  be  seen  in  the  plan,  can  be 
taken  directly  into  the   stable  without   going   out-of-doors. 

Straw  and  hay  are  stored 
in  the  lofts  above,  reached 
by  the  flight  of  stairs,  as 
shown.  The  arrange- 
ment of  the  loft  may  be 
according  to  the  wishes 
and  needs  of  the  builder. 
The  plan  of  the  stalls 
without  an  entry  in  front, 
as  shown,  while  very 
common  and  economical 
of  space,  is  not  a  good  one  if  it  can  be  avoided,  as  all  the 
feed  has  to  be  carried  in  alongside  of  the  animal.  When  a 
cow  is  kept  in  a  stall  of  this  kind  there  is  always  danger  of 
her  throwing  her  horns  around  and  injuring  her  attendant. 


PLAN  OF  SMALL  VILLAGE  STABLE. 


ABOUT    STABLES. 


125 


Some  may  prefer  a  hinged  door  to  the  carriage  room,  but 
the  rolling  one  has  the  advantage  of  never  blowing  about  in 
a  high  wind  and  is  easily  opened  and  shut  under  all  circum- 
stances, including  a  big  snowdrift  right  up  against  it.  The 
plan  has  been  drawn  to  the  scale  of  sixteen  feet  to  the  inch. 

The  second  plan  and  elevation  show  a  stable  larger  than 
the  preceding,  and  is  one  designed  by  a  member  of  the  Farm 


A   THREE-HORSE   STABLE. 

Journal  staft.  It  has  been  in  use  for  several  years,  and  has 
proven  to  be  very  satisfactory  and  convenient.  There  is 
stabling  for  three  horses,  and  by  doing  away  with  the  harness- 
closet  four  may  be  accommodated.  The  covered  driveway 
in  front  will  be  found  almost  indispensable — for  hitching  and 
unhitching,  for  washing  the  carriage  on  the  washpave,  (shown 
in  the  plan,)  for  cleaning  the  horses,  etc. 

The  harness-closet  should  have  been  shown  with  a  window 
in  it,  and  should  be  made  as  tight  as  possible  of  tongued  and 
grooved  boards.  The  stairway  leads  up  from  the  entry  to 
the  second  floor,  which  contains  a  good-sized  room  for  the 
man  to  sleep  in,  a  storage  room  for  grain,  a  mow  for  hay 


126 


ABOUT    STABLES. 


over  the  carriage  room,  and  one  for  straw  over  the  stalls. 
The  hay  is  thrown  down  the  chute  into  the  entry,  and  the 
straw  down  the  chute  back  of  the  stalls.  The  location  of 
the  chutes  is  shown  by  dotted  lines. '  The  manure  pit  is 
conveniently  placed  just  alongside  of  the  back  door,  where 
drains  in  the  cemented  floor  of  the  stalls  lead  the  liquid 
manure.  Either  end  of  the  shed  may  be  boarded  up  if 


necessary  to  make  it  more  protected  from  storms.  This  plan 
has  also  been  drawn  to  the  scale  of  sixteen  feet  to  the  inch. 
The  third  stable  shown  is  much  more  pretentious,  having 
accommodations  for  seven  horses  and  half-a-dozen  carriages. 
There  is  a  good-sized  harness-room,  a  large  areaway  for 
inside  ungearing,  two  box  stalls,  a  good-sized  feeding 
entry,  watering  trough,  a  ventilating  shaft,  and  other  con- 
veniencies.  Under  the  stairs  leading  to  the  second  floor 
there  is  a  closet.  The  second  floor  furnishes  abundance  of 


ABOUT   STABLES. 


127 


room  for  the  man,  storage  for  hay,  grain  and  straw,  and  a 
carpenter' s  room  for  working  in  on  rainy  days  could  be  easily 
located.  The  box  stalls  open  on  the  outside  as  well  as  into 
the  stable. 


STABLE    FOR    SEVEN    HORSES. 


In  this  plan  the  space  devoted  to  carriages  could  no  doubt 
be  advantageously  reduced,  as  the  room  shown  is  about  26 
by  32  feet. 


SL 


In  conclusion,  it  might  be  said  that  each  builder  should 
make  the  measurements  which  are  best  suited  to  his  wants. 
These  plans  are  merely  presented  as  suggestions  and  aids  in 
the  arrangement  and  location  of  the  different  essential  parts 
of  the  stable. 


INDEX. 


Age  of  a  Horse,  how  to  tell.  in. 

Ailments  and  Remedies,  58. 

Kalky  Horse,  the,  50. 

Blanket  Shield,  52. 

P.reecls,  13. 

Breeding  Farm  Horses,  76. 

Capped  Hocks,  67. 

Choking,  64. 

Choking  Distemper,  61. 

Colic,  Spasmodic  and  Wind,  60. 

Colt's  Education,  the.  83. 

Condition  Powders,  72. 

Corns,  94. 

Digestive  Apparatus,  29. 

Distemper,  59,  61. 

Docking  Horses,  108. 

Doctoring,  70. 

Driving  the  Colt,  83. 

Dysentery^  62. 

PLxterior  of  the  Horse,  10 

Fast  Walking,  86. 

Feeding  and  Watering,  31. 

Fits,  64, 

Foot,  the,  90. 

Giddiness,  64. 

Glanders,  63. 

Gorged  Stomach,  63 

Grooming,  42. 

Halters  for  Pullers,  53. 

Halters,  Road  and  Stable,  54. 

Harness  Closet,  56. 

Hay  Chute,  39. 

Heaves,  62. 

Hoof  Cleaner,  44. 

Hooks,  65. 

Horse  Tie,  54. 

Indigestion,  60. 

Injections,  71. 

Interfering,  102. 

In  the  Stable  and  at  Work,  40. 


Itching,  67. 

Kicking,  51,  86. 

Killing  a  Horse,  73. 

Knuckling,  66. 

Lampas,  65. 

Leading  Horses,  55. 

Lice,  65. 
,     Lockjaw,  64. 

Mare  and  Colt,  75. 

Maxims,  11,49,  74>  89,96, 

Megrims,  64. 

Navicular  Disease,  93. 

Overexertion,  68. 

Paddock,  Stallion,  78. 

Parts  of  the  Horse,  10. 

Poultice,  how  to,  72. 
,     Puncture  of  the  Hoof,  93. 
j     Remedies,  58. 
!     Ring  Bone.  66. 

Running  Away,  52. 

Salting,  34. 

Scratches,  59,  66. 

Shoeing,  97. 
!     Sore  Shoulders,  61. 

Spavin,  66. 

Splint,  66. 

Sprained  Fetlock,  66. 

Stable  Floors,  40. 

Stables,  115. 

Staggers,  64. 
I    String  Halt,  67. 

Syringe,  71. 

Tail  Rubbing,  50. 

Thrush,  94. 
j    Troughs,  37. 

Tying  the  Colt,  85. 

Vices,  50. 

Watering,  31. 

Wind  Galls,  67. 
;     Worms,  59. 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

LOAN  DEPT. 

RENEWALS  ONLY— TEL.  NO.  642-3405 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below,  or 

on  the  date  to  which  renewed. 

oks  are  subject  to  immediate  recall. 


